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Piz Palü 3900 m Route archive

The Silver Castle of Piz Palü with its three peaks and pillars is undoubtedly one of the most imposing and beautiful mountains in the Alps. The name Silver Castle was given to it because of the impression it makes to sojourners in the village of Samedan. The pillars and the couloirs filled by hanging glaciers are very symmetrical. The center pillar is the longest; between the three pillars, two hanging glaciers crash down, as well as between the side pillars and the E or W ridge. The three pillars are known as east, middle and west pillars, but are also called by the names of the first ascensionists: Kuffner, Bumiller and Zippert.

Palü is Puschlaver dialect and means "marsh". The name comes from Alp Palü, which lies partly in boggy ground below the Alp Grüm.

From the Diavolezza often only the E-summit is climbed as an independent goal. But also very popular and worthwhile is the full traverse of the three peaks, ending at the Fuorcla Bellavista. This traverse can be carried out in both directions. If starting from the Chamanna Boval, it is best done west to east.

The ascent of Piz Palü is considered to be relatively straightforward. However, depending on conditions - especially in the Cambrena-icefall - the tour should not be underestimated. In particular, one should also be careful not to descend too late in the afternoon, when the snow is soft and the snow bridges over the often large crevasses are weak.

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