Schalihorn 3975 m Route archive
The Schalihorn is one of the most difficult peaks of this group. It is a complex mountain. A glaciated SSW ridge and a rocky SE ridge meet at the main summit (3974 m, also called S summit). From there, a rocky ridge leads north to a second summit (3953 m). The flanks of the north ridge are very heavily rutted; ominous couloirs and ribs run down through these gloomy slopes and plunge into Glacier de Moming (in the west) and the Schaligletscher (in the east). Although the Schalihorn is surrounded by starting points (Rothornhütte, Cabane d'Arpitetta, Weisshornhütte, Schalijoch bivouac) most routes from them to the summit today cannot be recommended. This applies especially to routes through the flanks, which are exposed to rock fall and no longer promise Type 1 fun. The mountain is still traversed S-to-N relatively often, with the north ridge being used to gain Schalijochbiwak at 3787 m, in order to access the Schaligrat on the Weisshorn. But think twice before committing to this complicated crossing.