Southwest Flank and South East Ridge | Alpinism | Äbeni Flue | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Important notice for mountain sports enthusiasts

Covid certificate obligation in mountain huts

As of 13 September 2021, a valid Covid certificate must be presented for overnight stays and consumption inside mountain huts.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Southwest Flank and South East Ridge (Normal route) Äbeni Flue 3962 m

  • Difficulty
    F
  • Ascent
    2:30–3:30 h, 730 m

The Äbeni Fluh is a popular mountain despite being just shy of 4000 m in altitude. The normal route from the Hollandiahütte can be done on foot in the summer as well as in winter with skis or snowshoes. Shortly after leaving the hut, some large crevasses have to be negotiated on the flat part of the Äbeni Flue glacier, same again to gain the snow slope below the summit. The approach to the Hollandiahütte from the Jungfraujoch, or even more so from Lötschental, is longer and more demanding than climbing the Äbeni Fluh itself, especially in the summer months.

Route description

Hollandiahütte - Äbeni Flue-Firn - Äbeni Flue

From the Hollandiahütte (3240 m) start out across the initially crevassed but later harmless Äbeni Flue-Firn following its gentle rise towards the peak. Make a wide arc to the right (eastwards), avoiding the steepest ground to gain the saddle between P. 3946 m and the main summit. From here follow the flat snow ridge to the top at 3962 m.

Descent

Down the Ascent Route.

Additional information

Departure point
History

First ascent made by Thomas Lloyd Murray Browne with mountainguides Peter Bohren und Peter Schlegel on 27. August 1868.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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