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- Difficulty
- 6a+ (6a)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 12 P / 350 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- W / Gneiss
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- Altitude start
- 300 m
The route "Fantasy" is the true classic of the wall. It starts from the ledge and traverses right, crossing the route "Il Tasso" twice. Near the top it crosses multiple other routes, creating much confusion over the right direction to take (and rope entanglement if there are other parties).
Route description
Additional information
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Protection
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Very well equipped
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Rope
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2x50
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Quick draws
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12
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Stoppers
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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++
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Abseiling possible
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✔
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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"Fantasia": The difficulties of the route are homogeneous;
"Principio d'autunno": The route is in need for re-bolting. The 4th pitch can be aided (A0).
- Protection / Material
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Fantasia: Friends (Camalot 0.5-2).
Principio d'autunno: Friends (Camalot 0.5-1).
Ropes: If you descend on foot: one 50-meter rope; to abseil the route you need 2x50-metre ropes!
- Descent
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It is possible to abseil the route (or neighbouring routes). Alternatively, descend southwards on foot, passing a few outcrops, before ambling through the woods to reach the Nostrano sector. Here you meet the main path coming down from the alp which takes you comfortably back to Avegno.
- History
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The establishment of "Fantasia" in the early 1980s marked a significant step towards the evolution of climbing in Ticino.
This route was opened ground up by: Bruno Moretti, Attilio Bossi, C. Gianolini, G. Moretti and Ivano Regazzoni in 1981.
Lorenzo Petazzi and Renzo Ghisla have rebolted "Fantasia" and 3 other routes on the Scaladri in 2021.
The route "Principio d'autunno" (Principle of Autumn) is in need of re-bolting!
