COVID-19

As of 11 May, the SAC huts will be allowed to open and section tours will be possible again - however, some restrictions will remain in force.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Slab Ridge Crack Very Beautiful route

Bire SE-Flank Bire 2502 m

  • Difficulty
    5c (4c)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    13 P / 500 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SE, W / Limestone
  • Altitude start
    2000 m

Situated in the wonderful surroundings of the Öschinensee beneath the glaciated world of Fründenhorn and Blüemlisalp, this well equipped and relatively easy route attracts a host of visitors. If it wasn't for the demanding descent, many more people would visit it too. The climbing is split into two distinctly different sections. In the "Tschäri" (lower part) the route leads over slabby, grassy walls to the wide grass band of the Öschi Schafberg. The upper section is less often down and also less rewarding.

Route description

Approach
The route, up to Tschäri

The route leads in 8 pitches, interrupted by an 80 m high grass bank, roughly 300 m to the first 'summit'. From here you can abseil back to the start or follow the unmarked Öschischafberg mountain trail eastward to join the normal descent.

Continuation to the main summit of Bire

The upper section of the route is not as difficult and less rewarding. However, it is nice to end on the real summit and doesn't take too much effort.

Descent

Additional information

Protection
Very well equipped
Rope
2x50m
Quick draws
12
Stoppers
-
Friends
-
Trad Protection
-
Abseiling possible
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Protection / Material

If you don't plan to abseil over the route a single 50 m rope is sufficient.

Descent

From the top of Bire, first follow the NE ridge for 80 m then climb over a steep grassy slope southwards to reach a footpath. Head back to the abseil piste on Tschäri. Otherwise, after 1 km at P. 2302 a steep path leads through grassy slopes and a short rock step back towards the top station of the chair lift. When wet, the descent is dangerous! Duration of the descent from the top of Bire to the train station: 2 hours.

History

Bernouli and Reichen, 1894

Re-equipped by Ernst Müller and Ruedi Schütz 1994

Author

Martin Gerber

Martin Gerber has been a mountain guide since 1990 and wrote his first guidebook for the SAC in 1998. He has been working at the SAC for many years as both an author and course leader. His knowledge as an ornithologist comes across in all his work.

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