From Simplon Kulm or Simplon-Hospiz | Ski tour

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Breithorn (VS) Simplon
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From Simplon Kulm or Simplon-Hospiz

From Simplon Kulm or Simplon-Hospiz (Normal route) Breithorn (VS) Simplon 3436 m

Difficulty

PD+
Ascent

5 h, 1440 m
Descent

1440 m
Exposure

NW

At first the route is at the foot of the NE face of Hübschhorn, then on the slopes of the former Chaltwassergletscher. The last ascent leading up to Breithornpass traverses the small Homattugletscher. The summit is to the right-hand side of the col. Attention: the traverse leading to the slopes of Chalti Wasser and the W slope below Breithornpass may be hard frozen or swept snow-free by the wind.

The classic route to Breithorn (1) © Georges Sanga

The classic route to Breithorn (2) © Georges Sanga

Shortly before the crux of the tour, the characteristic boulder © Georges Sanga

The steep passage needs to be negotiated with caution. © Marc Diebold

The steep passage is well visible. © Georges Sanga

The summit and the long slope to Breithornpass © Georges Sanga

Ascending on Hohmattugletscher © Marc Diebold

Arriving on Breithornpass © Marc Diebold

Arriving on the summit. View to Monte Leone. © Georges Sanga

View from the summit to the Bernese Alps © Georges Sanga

View southward from the summit © Marc Diebold

Route description

Simplon Kulm – Hohmattupass

From Simplon Kulm (ca. 2000 m) or Simplon-Hospiz (1997 m) ascend the gentle NW slopes eastward to a large, strikingly black boulder ( "Panetone", ca. 2340 m), which is distinctively silhouetted against the NW ridge of Hübschhorn. Having reached the boulder (an outcrop of the NW ridge), continue eastward to a ditch. A traverse with a short, exposed passage and a steep couloir (treacherous in bad conditions) leads you to the wide slopes of Chalti Wasser. Continue to a terrace at ca. 2500 m. Staying away from the NE face of Hübschhorn, ascend to Hohmattupass (2867 m) in a wide arc.

Hohmattupass – Breithorn

Continue the ascent to Breithornpass (3345 m), at first on the N rim of the Homattugletscher, then in the centre of the glacier. From Breithornpass turn right (S) to a glacier depression and ascend the knoll in the centre which is the Breithorn summit.

Descent

On the ascent