S-Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

S-Ridge (Normal route) Breitlauihorn 3655 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3a
Ascent

3:30–3:30 h, 900 m
Descent

30 m

Nowadays, the south ridge on the Breitlauihorn is the normal route. A rather short, but varied and highly recommended high tour from the Baltschiederklause. Frequently done and highly praised. The rock section on the actual south ridge is short-lived, but in dry conditions offers beautiful climbing. To reach the start of the ridge, climb over the relatively problem-free Üssre Baltschieder glacier. Some larger crevasses before the firn plateau at almost 3500 m sometimes cause some problems. However, there is (almost) always a way round them.

Route Overview. Üssre Baltschiedergletscher - Breitlauihorn (07/2013) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

A very wintery Breitlauihorn, the S-Ridge leading from the right of the picture. (10/2015) © Bernhard Senn-Erismann

Route description

Baltschiederklause - Üssre Baltschiedergletscher

From the Baltschiederklause (hut) at 2,783 m, follow the path north-west through the SW-flank of the Jägihorn, then cross scree slopes and rocky slabs beneath the Üssre Baltschiedergletscher.

Üssre Baltschiedergletscher - Saddle P. 3475

The scree slopes and slabs lead to westwards up to the glacier. It is joined at approximately 2950 m. Now climb in a steady arc across the glacier to the distinctive saddle at P. 3475, to the N of the three towers.

Saddle P. 3475 - Breitlauihorn

Immediately after the saddle you must climb a short slab (3a). Thereafter the ridge becomes easier, and leads you gently northwards to the summit. Some less compact rock here and there, and maybe some firn snow.