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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From Champex by the Val d'Arpette Cabane du Trient CAS 3170 m

  • Difficulty
    AD
  • Ascent
    6 h, 1700 m
  • Exposure
    N, NE

A recommended approach though it can be exposed to avalanches. It is also not free from difficulties; the section "Fenêtre des Chamois" can be tricky.

Route description

Champex – Couloir

From Champex (1468 m), take the signposted path westwards to the chalets at Arpette. Continue up the valley, keeping to its southern bank. After you round the Tête d'Arpette (P.2294) climb diagonally SW over the broad flat slope of the Pierriers d'Arpette. Once you pass level with the start of the east ridge of Pointe des Ecandies (P.2406), bea west beneath the northern flanks of Pointe d'Orny aiming for the Col des Ecandies. Shortly before the col, turn left (S) and enter the obvious couloir which leads up to a gap (the "Fenêtre des Chamois"or "window of the chamois").

Couloir – Fenêtre des Chamois

Head up the steep couloir (usually on foot) to reach the Fenêtre des Chamois (approx. 2990 m). This section can be tricky when the rocks are verglassed.

Fenêtre des Chamois – Hut

Ascending slightly, cross the steep flank to P. 3008, then drop down onto the eastern bank of the Glacier du Trient. Trace its upper edge beneath the lowest rocks of Point d'Orny, and arc round to the east to reach Cabane du Trient (3169 m).

Variation for when the glacier is well filled in.

Instead of climbing the couloir, cross the the Col des Escandies and drop down the other side to meet the glacier's east bank lower down. Ascend to join the normal route, paying close attention to the crevasses.

Additional information

Departure point

Champex, télé (1498 m)

Crux

The Fenêtre des Chamois (not marked on the map) is located above the Col des Ecandies and accessed by a steep couloir. For this passage, the full set of alpine equipment and know-how is required.

Waypoints

Col des Ecandies (2793 m)

Is passed on the variant.

Route number

26d

Author

Georges Sanga

Georges Sanga, active alpinist in both summer and winter, is the author of several ski tour and alpine hiking guides and an editor of the swisstopo ski tour maps. His passion for the mountains, and mountain photography, takes him to every corner of Switzerland.

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