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WNW-Flank from Klein Matterhorn via the Zwillingsjoch (Normal route) Castor 4223 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, I
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- Ascent
- 3–4:30 h, 560 m
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- Descent
- 270 m
This is the normal route via the Zwillingsjoch. However, it is well known for its avalanche danger (also in summer!). Most prominent after heavy snowfall and high winds resulting in the build up of 'wind-slab'. As an alternative for bad conditions, you might also consider the NW Ridge (Grenzgrat). You can also do the tour starting from the Rif. Guide d'Ayas. The route changes depending on conditions; the most recent is described here.
Route description
Station Klein Matterhorn - Zwillingsjoch
From the station Klein Matterhorn (3817 m) head initially SSE and then eastwards to P. 3824 of Breithornpass. From the Breithorn Pass (P. 3824) drop down a little, then contour round on the southern flanks of the mountain, beneath P. 3831 and along the 3700 m contour line until you pass above the Biv. Rossi e Volante (3787 m) and reach the Schwarztor, 1½ hrs. On this traverse pay attention to the large, often poorly covered crevasses (most in the direction of travel). From here turn right and circle round the the foot of the SW ridge of the Pollux, cross the crevassed glacier beneath the southern rocks of the Pollux and reach the Zwillingsjoch, 2½ hrs.
Variant: Rif. Guide d'Ayas (IT) - Zwillingsjoch
The Zwillingsjoch can also be reached from the Italian side (Rif. Guide d'Ayas):
From the Rif. Guide d'Ayas (about 3394 m) you climb first eastwards over the Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra and then northeast to the Zwillingsjoch (or otherwise continue east directly to the W flank of Castor) 1 hour.
Zwillingsjoch - Castor
Leave the Zwillingsjoch (3846 m) and climb up southeast (onto the NW-flank). Between 3900 and 4000 m start to bear south and climb diagonally up the steep snow flank. Below some rocks, move out into the centre of the west flank proper. As you reach the hollow below the summit ridge, keep left and aim for the saddle between fore-summit (4205 m) and main summit. Cross the sometimes delicate bergschrund and climb the last 30 m high ice and rock wall to gain the saddle. A narrow firn ridge leads from here to the summit of Castor (4226 m), 2 hours.
Descent
Down the route of ascent. 2½ hrs.
Additional information
- Departure point
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Klein Matterhorn, Bergstation (3817 m)
Informationen zur Seilbahn Zermatt–Klein Matterhorn: www.zermatt.ch/Bahnen-Pisten
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- Waypoints
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