S-Ridge | Alpine climbing | Chöpfenberg | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Ridge Very Beautiful route

S-Ridge Chöpfenberg 1894 m

  • Difficulty
    4c (4a)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    11 P / 3–4 h, 230 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    S / Limestone
  • Altitude start
    1650 m

Scenic climbing over numerous small towers, which - without significant drops in between - link together nicely. The climb starts in the same place as the much visited Brüggler area, but on this furthest climb, along the watershed between Schwändi- and Trepsental you are likely to be alone. The route starts with an exposed traverse and 40 m of fine ridge climbing on the massive first tower. This is followed by several shorter climbing lengths and a sharp, horizontal ridge section. After the grassy connecting pitches (8 and 9), it gets even airier. The summit head wall is surprisingly outwitted by following a rightward slanting crack.

Route description

S-Ridge

See also: Topo. Pitch 1: From the blue marked starting point (piton) climb to the left, traversing the wall to a grass band. Follow this pass a dead tree to a crack, which leads through the first difficult section (piton), move to the left out of the crack on a grassy band to a stance in the middle (piton). Pitch 2: Continue leftwards to the arete, then a few meters slightly left of it up to another piton. Go straight along the arete and then easier up to the ridge (belay stance). Pitch 3: A few steps lead you to a small tower; climb it directly and after the steepest meters traverse right to an ancient time-bomb sling. Pitch 4: Descend into the notch, approach the following overhanging wall, climb this on the left, until you can move back rightwards to a piton. Tricky, athletic moves lead up into a crack (piton); follow this high (easier) to the top of the tower and cross into the following gap (belay stance). Pitch 5: Follow a dihedral up (piton), continue scrabbling in the chimney scrubber, then take easier ground along the ridge to a small pinnacle before a horizontal section (sling belay). Pitch 6: Down climb a few meters rightwards (east side) then balance along the horizontal edge. There follows a beautiful slab (depending on the length of the rope possibly belay). The following tower can be climbed; it has a somewhat tricky descent into the next gap. Alternatively, after the slab, keep left (west) of the ridge and reach the gap directly, bypassing the tower completely. Pitch 7: Continue up the next tower. Pitches 8/9: Now 2-3 rope lengths in simple grassy terrain up to platform (trees) under a small steepwall (piton left of the arete). Pitch 10: Magnificent climbing lead up the following wall and onto the ridge to a stance beneath the final summit wall (2 rusty pitons). Pitch 11: A rightward slanting crack leads though easy terrain and up to the summit.

Descent

Additional information

Protection
Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope
50 m
Quick draws
5
Stoppers
-
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
-
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

Die schwierigste Kletterstelle befindet sich in der 4. Seillänge am dritten Turm (um 4c–5a). Es stecken dort aber 2, 3 gute Haken, die über diese kurze, steile Stelle hinweg helfen können. Alternativ kann man die Türme 3 und 4 ostseitig einfach umgehen, muss sich dabei aber durch die Föhren kämpfen. Mit dieser Variante gehen die Schwierigkeiten kaum über den dritten Grad hinaus.

Rock Type / Quality

Der Fels ist für eine Tour in diesem Schwierigkeitsbereich über weite Strecken und immer dort, wo es anspruchsvoller ist zum Klettern, fest und griffig. In einfachen und grasigen Passagen dagegen ist Vorsicht geboten, weil naturgemäss nicht alles kompakt ist.

Protection / Material

In den schwierigeren Kletterstellen sowie an den Ständen, wo nicht mit Schlingen gesichert werden kann, stecken zuverlässig gute, vereinzelt auch etwas angerostete Schlaghaken, aber keine Bohrhaken. Mit zusätzlich 3–4 kleineren bis mittleren Cams und 2, 3 langen Schlingen lässt sich die Tour ausreichend gut absichern. Ein alpiner Charakter bleibt ihr aber in jedem Fall erhalten.

Descent

Auf dem z.T. gesicherten Bergweg zurück ins Schwändital (siehe Abstieg Chöpfenberg)

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