From Capanna del Forno via Passo dal Cantun and the S-Ridge | Alpinism | Cima dal Cantun | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From Capanna del Forno via Passo dal Cantun and the S-Ridge Cima dal Cantun 3354 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3a
  • Ascent
    3:30–4:30 h, 1050 m
  • Descent
    1050 m

Interesting tour from the Capanna da Forno first over the Glacier, then from Passo dal Cantun via the South Ridge in variable climbing to the second highest summit in the area.

Route description

Capanna del Forno - glacier tongue

From the Capanna del Forno, descend the hut approach path to reach the tongue of the glacier.

Glacier tongue - Passo dal Cantun

Head in a southerly direction over the Vadrec del Forno (glacier) to a plateau at about 2600 m. Continue in steeper terrain, describing a large arc beneath the northeastern walls of Punta Rasica until facing northwest. Climb up to Passo dal Cantun (3253 m). Near the top, a rocky step is overcome at its weakest point; thereafter, a short firn slope leads up to the pass.

Passo dal Cantun - Cima dal Cantun

From the pass, climb north over the firn, then over a rock band, onto the gently rising, upper part of the south ridge. A small tower is bypassed on the right (east) side (bolts). The last towers before the summit can be climbed direct or can again be bypassed on the eastern side.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent. It is possible to abseil the rocky step below the pass to rejoin the glacier. Alternative: descend the Vadrec dal Castel Nord glacier to Cap. da l'Albigna.

Additional information

Departure point
Time

Remember the ca. 300 m altitude gain necessary to reach the Cap. dal Forno from the glacier on return!

Waypoints
History

FA made by Rydzewsky with Chr. Klucker and M. Barbaria on 18th June 1891.

Authors

Marcel Schenk

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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