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From Capanna del Forno via Passo dal Cantun and the S-Ridge Cima dal Cantun 3354 m
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- Difficulty
- PD+, 3a
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1050 m
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- Descent
- 1050 m
Interesting tour from the Capanna da Forno first over the Glacier, then from Passo dal Cantun via the South Ridge in variable climbing to the second highest summit in the area.
Route description
Capanna del Forno - glacier tongue
From the Capanna del Forno, descend the hut approach path to reach the tongue of the glacier.
Glacier tongue - Passo dal Cantun
Head in a southerly direction over the Vadrec del Forno (glacier) to a plateau at about 2600 m. Continue in steeper terrain, describing a large arc beneath the northeastern walls of Punta Rasica until facing northwest. Climb up to Passo dal Cantun (3253 m). Near the top, a rocky step is overcome at its weakest point; thereafter, a short firn slope leads up to the pass.
Passo dal Cantun - Cima dal Cantun
From the pass, climb north over the firn, then over a rock band, onto the gently rising, upper part of the south ridge. A small tower is bypassed on the right (east) side (bolts). The last towers before the summit can be climbed direct or can again be bypassed on the eastern side.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent. It is possible to abseil the rocky step below the pass to rejoin the glacier. Alternative: descend the Vadrec dal Castel Nord glacier to Cap. da l'Albigna.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Time
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Remember the ca. 300 m altitude gain necessary to reach the Cap. dal Forno from the glacier on return!
- Waypoints
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- History
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FA made by Rydzewsky with Chr. Klucker and M. Barbaria on 18th June 1891.
