From Capanna da l’Albigna via the Bocchetta dal Castel | Alpinism | Cima di Castello | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From Capanna da l’Albigna via the Bocchetta dal Castel (Normal route) Cima di Castello 3378 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3a
  • Ascent
    4–5 h, 1200 m
  • Descent
    1200 m

Long but relatively straightforward tour to the highest summit of the area. The Cima di Castello can also be done during a hut to hut tour via the Passo dal Cantun, when changing from the Albignia- to the Forno hut (or reverse).

Route description

Capanna de l'Albigna - end of the footpath

From the Albigna hut, follow the path leading south, down to the reservoir. Cross the bridge and ascend the opposite scree slope on the northern flank of Punta da l'Albigna. Follow tracks around the western buttress of Punta da l'Albigna, then head along beneath the south facing walls to reach the glacier.

End of the footpath - Bocchetta dal Castel

Head southeast beneath the south facing walls of Punta da l'Abigna towards the Vadrec del Castel Nord glacier. Bear southwards over the glacier to reach the saddle, Bocchetta dal Castel, at 3104 m

Bocchetta dal Castel - Cima di Castello

From the saddle, Bocchetta dal Castel (3104 m), either ascend the west ridge directly, or drop down slightly to its southern side and ascend via the west flank. A final short section of ridge provides the crux (2a) where the greatest difficulties are avoided by keeping left (east).

Descent

Follow the route of ascent. Or descend to Passo dal Cantun and descend the Vadrec del Forno gacier to reach the Forno hut.

Additional information

Departure point
Time

Ca. 170 m altitude gain from the glacier stream up to the Albigna hut if returning there.

Waypoints
History

FA made by D.W. Freshfield and C.C. Tucker with François Dévouassoud and Alexander Flury on 31. July 1866.

Authors

Marcel Schenk

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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