SW-Pillar | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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SW-Pillar Dammazwillinge 3274 m

Difficulty

5c (5c)
Pitches / Height Difference

8 P / 3–4 h, 250 m
Exposition / Rock Type

SW / Granite
Altitude start

3100 m

This classic 5c should be on the tick list of any climber. The approach was not so very long, it is certain the route would be crawling with people. The striking red of the SW-Pillar stands out like a jewel, despite being just a part of on immense rock amphitheater. The route is sustained in difficulty and varied in structure. It is hard to imagine that a route of this grade can pass through such seemingly steep terrain.

At the beginning of the season the snow reaches the start of the first pitch... (06/2015) © Simeon Christophe

Later in the season, after the last abseil, you will have to down climb. (08/2015) © Simeon Christophe

The traverse on pitch 3. (08/2015) © Simeon Christophe

View SW towards the Glaenstock. (06/2015) © Simeon Christophe

Route description

Tiefenbach

From Tiefenbach start along the Albert-Heim-Hütte trail, then follow the path as for Graue Wand, before turning off eastwards and passing north of P.2765 to reach the Tiefengletscher above its steeper lower section. Continue along the gently rising glacier to the big red jewel that is the Dammazwillinge.

Related route: Approach to Dammazwillinge

SW-Pillar

See topo.

Descent

For he first three abseils, go down the SW-Pillar route, for the rest follow the line of "Paradis Perdu".

Additional information

Protection: Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 12
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: -
Ski approach possible: ✔
Glacier equipment: -

Difficulty: As the glacier ice melts, and the surface sinks, more rock will be revealed. This means unprotected climbing to reach the original, bolted start.

The crux of pitch 2 is short lived. The traverse on pitch 3 requires good technique. At belay 5 you cross to the right and do not climb straight up (route "Paradis Perdu").

Descent: The first three abseils go down the SW-Pillar route, the next follow the line of "Paradis Perdu". In the first two abseils, a few rock flakes may cause the rope to jam. After mid-season, when the surface snows have melted away, the last abseil will not put you on the ground and you will have to down climb a short way (easy climbing).