North East Flank from Trifthütte SAC | Alpinism

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Home
Huts and Tours
- SAC Route Portal
- Subscribe to the SAC Route Portal
SAC Route Portal
Diechterhoren / Diechterhorn
- Alpinism
- Ski tour
Alpinism
North East Flank from Trifthütte SAC

North East Flank from Trifthütte SAC (Normal route) Diechterhoren / Diechterhorn 3387 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

3–4 h, 1070 m
Descent

2–2:30 h, 1070 m

The wild and heavily glaciated Trift basin was one of the loneliest areas of the Swiss Alps until just a few years ago. Since the KWO-Werksbahn cable car has been made available for public use, and the imposing Triftbrücke suspension bridge has been presented in the media, mountain tours around the Trifthütte have become popular. Most climbs are over glaciers and relatively easy to tackle. Nevertheless, the heavily rugged Trift glacier demands a healthy amount of alpine experience and a good sense for optimal route finding. Particularly popular is the normal route to the Diechterhoren, which is mostly glacier apart from the final straightforward climb to the tippy-top.

The Trift glacier with the Diechterhoren in the centre of the picture. (08/2015) © Artur Naue

Perfect conditions on the ascent to Diechterhoren. (07/2013) © Artur Naue

On the final slope to Diechterhoren, strength is once again mobilised. (07/2015) © Artur Naue

View from the ascent of Diechterhoren towards Diechterlimi and the Tieralplistock. (07/2015) © Artur Naue

The exposed final ridge to the north summit (here with a lot of snow in spring). © Fabian Lippuner

View from the summit area towards Diechterlimmi and Tieralplistock. (07/2006) © Christoph Barth

From the pre-summit to the main summit of Diechterhoren, a little climbing is again required. (08/2011) © Pascal Thalmann

Abstieg vom Diechterhoren im Richtung Diechterlimmi und Gelmerhütte. (07/2013) © Artur Naue

Route description

Descent from the Trifthütte

From the Trifthütte (2520 m) descend along the hut trail until it makes a marked bend right towards the valley at about 2410.

From the hut path to the glacier.

Turn southwards into a small floodplain, and enter onto the glacier behind a small knoll around 2400 m.

Across the Trift glacier to the summit.

Rise south-east over the glacier to the lower Trift basin and, evading big crevasses from time to time, arc southwest and upwards into the Obere Triftchessel (upper basin). The northeastern flank of the Diechterhoren, with its moderately steep firn slopes, provides direct access to the north summit (albeit the short rocky section at the top). The passage to the only slightly higher south summit is somewhat more demanding (II-III).