From North West | Alpinism | Doldenhorn | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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As of 13 September 2021, a valid Covid certificate must be presented for overnight stays and consumption inside mountain huts.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From North West (Normal route) Doldenhorn 3638 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 1730 m

The long, frequented normal route to the Doldenhorn. The starting point is the pretty Doldenhorn hut, nestled among the larches, on a cliff top high above Kandersteg. From the hut a partially marked footpath leads up to the glacier. The following ascent of the glacier varies depending on conditions, with the overcoming of a large crevasse around 3400 m forming the main difficulty. It is usually overcome towards its eastern end or straight through the middle. From the summit of the Doldenhorn you will be gifted an incomparable view over the heart of the Bernese Alps,

Route description

Doldenhornhütte - Glacier (P. 2973)

From the Doldenhütte (1915 m) climb the gentle slopes of the Upper Biberg on a clear path (visible on the map and marked) to P. 2202. From here ascend steeply over a pronounced moraine to P. 2406. Now head over to the left and cross the wide gully which leads down to the Staubbach (stream) to the ridge of 'Bim Spitze Stei'. Pass this peak to the west and reach the glacier by a small plateau, at P. 2973.

Glacier (P. 2973) - Doldenhorn Summit

From the small glacier plateau at P. 2973 you climb up the glacier and reach the large crevasse zone at about 3400 m. Pass this zone at a suitable place (usually towards the eastern glacier side) and reach the saddle between Doldenhorn and Klein Doldenhorn. Climb the (often icy) final slope which narrows into a proper snow ridge to reach the highest point.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Difficulty

Bis zum Gletscher gut markierter Weg und Wegspur. Im Spätsommer kann die Spaltenzone auf ca. 3400 m erhebliche Schwierigkeiten bereiten.

History

E. von Fellenberg, A. Roth with J. Bischof, K. Blatter, Ch. and P. Lauener, Ch. Ogi and G. Reichen, 30. Juni 1862

Author

Bernhard Senn

Bernhard Senn is a physiotherapist specializing in workplace ergonomics and workplace health promotion. Bernhard has been an SAC author since 2013 and will often be found 'out and about' in the mountains; whether with rock gear, skis, mountain bike or paraglider.

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