From North West | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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From North West (Normal route) Doldenhorn 3638 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

5–6 h, 1730 m

The long, frequented normal route to the Doldenhorn. The starting point is the pretty Doldenhorn hut, nestled among the larches, on a cliff top high above Kandersteg. From the hut a partially marked footpath leads up to the glacier. The following ascent of the glacier varies depending on conditions, with the overcoming of a large crevasse around 3400 m forming the main difficulty. It is usually overcome towards its eastern end or straight through the middle. From the summit of the Doldenhorn you will be gifted an incomparable view over the heart of the Bernese Alps,

Doldenhorn, viewed from Spitze Stei. (08/2009) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Route description

Doldenhornhütte - Glacier (P. 2973)

From the Doldenhütte (1915 m) climb the gentle slopes of the Upper Biberg on a clear path (visible on the map and marked) to P. 2202. From here ascend steeply over a pronounced moraine to P. 2406. Now head over to the left and cross the wide gully which leads down to the Staubbach (stream) to the ridge of 'Bim Spitze Stei'. Pass this peak to the west and reach the glacier by a small plateau, at P. 2973.

Glacier (P. 2973) - Doldenhorn Summit

From the small glacier plateau at P. 2973 you climb up the glacier and reach the large crevasse zone at about 3400 m. Pass this zone at a suitable place (usually towards the eastern glacier side) and reach the saddle between Doldenhorn and Klein Doldenhorn. Climb the (often icy) final slope which narrows into a proper snow ridge to reach the highest point.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point

Doldenhornhütte SAC (1915 m)

Difficulty: Bis zum Gletscher gut markierter Weg und Wegspur. Im Spätsommer kann die Spaltenzone auf ca. 3400 m erhebliche Schwierigkeiten bereiten.