from the Jungfraujoch | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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from the Jungfraujoch (Normal route) Finsteraarhornhütte SAC 3048 m

  • Difficulty
    F
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 660 m
  • Descent
    1050 m

The easiest way to the Finsteraarhornhütte descends from the Jungfraujoch over the Jungfraufirn (glacier) to Konkordiaplatz: the junction where three glaciers meet to create the two iconic black stripes of the lower Aletschgletscher. From here a climb of the Grüneggfirn brings you up to the Grünhornlücke. Descend the eastern side and finally cross the Fiescher glacier to gain the hut. It is an impressive glacier walk through the central part of the Bernese Alps and the Jungfrau-Aletsch UNESCO World Heritage site. This technically easy route should not be underestimated. Roping up on the snow-covered glacier, along with correct rope handling and good stamina are essential for the 6-hour glacier crossing.

Route description

Jungfraujoch 3454 m - Konkordiaplatz ca. 2700 m
From the Jungfraujoch station (3454 m) exit through the Sphinx tunnel. From here, to avoid the largest crevasses, descend initially south-west over the Jungfraufirn (glacier) to reach the first, flatter glacial depression. From here turn south-east into the next hollow at about 3200 m. Continue south-south-east towards the lower flanks of the Trugberg and onto ​​the flatter part of the Jungfraufirn. Then while maintaining a safe distance keep approximately parallel to the Trugberg until near the glacial junction at P. 2763, where the Jungfraufirn and the Ewigschneefäld come together. The small lake at P. 2763 is bypassed to the south. Continue on the left (E) side of the stream, which flows from the small lake, climb slightly towards the Ewigschneefäld but essentially countour round to its southern edge and then on to the south foot of the Grünegg. 2 to 2hrs 30mins. A lake is not always present at P. 2763; the water may have found a sub-surface channel, hence the wide and deep channel leading from the lake will also be gone. In this case you can cross further south (more directly) towards the foot of the Grünegg.
Konkordiaplatz ca. 2700 m to the Grünhornlücke 3279 m
From here climb steadily ENE up the partly debris-covered and partly bare Grüneggfirn to the Grünhornlücke (gap) at 3279 m. 1hr 30 minutes - 2hrs
Grünhornlücke 3279 m to the Finsteraarhornhütte 3048 m
From the Grünhornlücke descend onto the Fiescher glacier (often large crevasses below the gap). Cross the Fiescher Glacier and, depending on the season, ascend a marked trail through the rocks, or up through the snow couloir to the west (left) of the rocks.

Additional information

Departure point

Jungfraujoch, summit station (3453 m)

www.jungfrau.ch

Timetable for mountain climbers and ski tourers: www.jungfrau.ch/en-gb/jungfrau-ski-region/grindelwald-wengen/touring-skiers/

Time

Kürzester Zustieg zur Finsteraarhornhütte, dennoch eine lange, hochalpine Gletschertour!

Difficulty

Oft grosse Spalten unterhalb der Grünhornlücke!

Waypoints
History

The first Finsteraarhorn hut was constructed in 1905 by the Oberhasli section of the Swiss Alpine Club using material from the decommissioned Oberaarjoch hut. This first edition of the Finsteraarhorn hut stood about 200 meters higher than the current hut.

In 1924, a newer hut was built in the location it remains today. It has been renovated several times, the last time in 2005.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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