Tälli Via Ferrata | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Tälli Via Ferrata Gadmerflue / exit from the Tällistock Klettersteig 2540 m

  • Difficulty
    K3
  • Ascent
    3 h, 500 m
  • Mountain Experience
    2 / 4
  • Power
    2 / 4
  • Endurance
    3 / 4
  • Psyche
    2 / 4

The Haslital mountain guides built the first via ferrata in the Swiss Alps in 1993 - the centenary of their association. This was a real pioneering act. "Via ferrata" fits very well in the case of "Tälli". Not only because of the old mule track that led from Haslital to the Italian Ossola; the route is also very reminiscent of the scenic 'iron ways' of the Italian Dolomites. The wall, behind the Tällihütte, is over 600 meters high and angled from steep to vertical. The route weaves about a bit, following a natural line; it is not too demanding and is well secured. Four years after first opening, the route was extended, with more steel cable and five new ladders. After a good three hours full of action you may finally stand up, to find an excellent panorama and are guaranteed to be thrilled. The view extends from the high mountains - the three- and four-thousanders from Sustenhrn to the Wetterhorn group, and out into the green foothills of the Alps. With Föhn you can even see as far as the Black Forest.

Route description

Tällistock Via Ferrata
The first of a total 14 ladders, about 8 meters high, signifies the start - with a somewhat tricky, short ascent through a steep gully. After this, traverse on a horizontal band with short airy steps (iron bars) rightwards until the cables lead upwards once again. In some stimulating climbing, follow steep walls, grassy bits and ledges upwards. The steepness gradually decreases as you climb. A nice quirk here is the wooden bench (at about 2240 m) which the Haslital mountain guides installed in a small grotto; a nice place for a break! The cables then lead over a rock step onto the next, striking grass band; this crosses under huge rock walls rightwards to a promising corner. Slowly the extent of the corner comes into view, with its stack of three ladders. It leads to a broad rib, which leads you through the next steep section. Another, breezier, rock band leads rightwards to the next climbing section:"Monas Step", harder for the short. Continue rightwards around a rocky corner to a fascinating view of the summit with Susten Pass behind, and the route book (about 2450 m). The climbing by no means ends here: another five ladders and a few more passages secured by cables lead on to the summit (approx. 2555 m).

Additional information

Character

A scenic and impressive via ferrata in classic style, totalling 14 ladders, iron bars, pins and steel cables for security. The main difficulties are encountered in the lowest section. For the return path, conditions are very important.

Time

Total time: 6½ hours

Apporach: 1 hr.

Tälli via ferrata: 3 hours

Descent / return to Tällibahn: 2½ hours

Descent to the Engstlenalp (variant): 1½ hours

Signalisation

Both the ascent and descent are rather sparingly marked (white-blue-white, cairns, a few iron bars). In fog, orientation can be problematic when descending to the north.

Descent

Alternative descent to Engstlenalp (bus).

Waypoints

Tällihütte, Bergstation (1726 m)

Tällihütte mountain station - cable car to Bedarf.

Engstlenalp (1835 m)

Engstlenalp, bus in summer season.

History

First official Via Ferrata in Switzerland.

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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