Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Steep wall Crack Especially Beautiful route

Galengrat-Verschneidung Galenstock 3586 m

  • Difficulty
    6a (5c)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    11 P / 4:30 h, 330 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SW / Granite
  • Altitude start
    2970 m

Classic route with a great finish and in an environment that's as wild as you could wish for. The decline of the glacier has made the beginning of the tour more complicated than it was when it was opened, but overall it remains feasible. While most people climb the route and then abseil it, others bring their mountain boots and crampons, and continue the ascent to the summit of the Galenstock, making a varied and complete circular tour out of it. If you approach the climb with this intention, there is another abseiling piste higher up.

Route description

Hotel Furkablick - cliff base

From Hotel Furkablick, take the Sidelenhütte path to the top of the moraine. Cross the foot of the Sidelengletscher and climb up the left hand branch to a plateau between Gross Furkahorn and the Galenstock. At its N end, a steep slope leads into a corner and the foot of the wall. The start of the route is located in the fall line of the route's final dihedral corner, in a zone of light gray rocks, left of a half-moon in dark rock. The bergschrund can be tricky to cross at the end of the season.

Galengrat-Verschneidung

See topo. The 6th stance is shared with "Lunar Impulse" which then crosses the line.

Descent

Abseil the route or, further along the ridge, by a giant cairn, take the military abseil piste (huge metal ledges at each stance!).

Additional information

Protection
Mediocre equipped, longer runouts possible
Rope
2x50m
Quick draws
12
Stoppers
-
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
Foot Descent
-
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

Warning: With the glacier retreat, an extra pitch around 6a must be climbed to reach the original, easier start. Since this is the first pitch and it is usually climbed in the early morning shadow (Brrrrr) it feels even harder... but its not... honestly. In addition, crossing the bergschrund is sometimes tricky. The rest of the route is nicely sustained in difficulty.

Rock Type / Quality

The first six pitches are on fairly compact rock. Pitch 7 is a transitional rope length in looser rock and grassy terrain. From pitch 8 onwards, the rock takes on an increasingly red colour.

Protection / Material

Various pitons were replaced with bolts in 2015; in the lighter sections the distances are still far.

Descent

The top abseil point has been moved to avoid rope jamming (check well where the rope runs). After that, descend the line of the route until you reach stance 6. From here, abseil the line of "Lunar Impulse" (first abseil steep).

History

Hans-Peter Geier, Dieter Kienast, 1966 / 2015

Author

Christophe Siméon

Christophe Siméon hat Französisch und Geschichte studiert und arbeitet zurzeit als Lehrer. Als aktiver Alpinist und Kletterer beteiligt er sich auch an Routeneröffnungen und -sanierungen. Seit 2011 ist er Mitglied der SAC-Verlagskommission.

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