Galenstock | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Galenstock 3586 m Alpinism

The shapely Galenstock, with its striking but dangerous summit cornice, dominates the area of the Furkapass. Two heavily articulated ridges with many secondary peaks lead out from its south side. One carries the jagged tops of the Gross and Chli Bielenhorns; the other, which stretches as far as Furkapass, the heavy accents of Sidelenhorn and the Gross + Klein Furkahorns. What nobody would have thought possible years ago has, unfortunately due to glacier retreat, become reality: On the summit, during late summer, you may no longer stand on a massive snow cap, but be sitting on the sun-warmed rocks enjoying the grandiose view of Valais or Urnerland.

Until the 1960s, the Galenstock really was a snow and ice tour. Except for the SE pillar there was not much to climb on its rocky flanks. Hans-Peter Geier and Dieter Kienast then opened the Galengrat-Verschneidung in 1966, a bold ascent for that time. In the midst of the great alpine environment, this route has become a classic.

Galenstock with its characteristic summit cornice, high above the Tiefengletscher. (08/2015) © Müller Bruno

Galenstock West Flank above the Rhonegletscher. (06/2015) © Müller Bruno

The summit cornice ahead, the last metres to the summit. (07/2017) © Christoph Moser

With its bright white summit dome, Galenstock is THE eye-catcher in Goms. View from Sidelhorn. (01/2011) © www.cornelsuter.ch

In autumn 2020, this beautiful summit cross was created on the Galenstock. (02/2021) © www.cornelsuter.ch

The Galenstock with its typical cornices, which are well known further afield. Gross Bielenhorn left, Gletschhorn right. (01/2020) © www.cornelsuter.ch

Galenstock at sunrise. (01/2020) © www.cornelsuter.ch

The sun touches the Galenstock, the north ridge on the left, the Galensgrat on the right. (On the Rhone Glacier) (11/2011) © Cornel Suter

Galenstock, the west wall, on the left the north ridge, on the right the Galengrat. (During the ascent to the Tieralplistock) (06/2014) © www.cornelsuter.ch

Routes (5)

route	Difficulty	Ascent	Descent
Approach to the Galengrat-Verschneidung / Lunar Impulse (Normal route)	F	1:45 h, 560 m
From the Rhonegletscher via the South Flank (Normal route)	PD	5–6 h, 1420 m	3–4 h, 1420 m
via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat.	PD+	5–6 h, 1160 m	3–4 h, 1160 m
Vom Tiefengletscher über den Nordgrat	AD	4:30–5:30 h, 1100 m	1100 m
Von der Oberen Bielenlücke über den Südostgrat	D	4–6 h, 900 m	2–3 h, 900 m

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From the route archive

Urner Alpen 2, Göscheneralp – Furka – Grimsel (15) 1996, German

Route	Difficulty
P. 3252, SE-Sporn	4-5+
Abstieg von P. 3252
P. 3252 im Galengrat-S-Pfeiler	5+ A2
Galengrat-S-Wand	5+
Abstiege vom Galenstock
Erster SE-Grat-Gendarm, S-Pfeiler	A2 6
Von N	WS-ZS
Von S	WS
Abstieg zum Sidelengletscher	WS
SE-Grat	WS, 4+
SE-Sporn	2-3+
S-Wand (Voie Zigzag)	6 A1
NW-Sporn	3-4+
S-Wand	5+
NW-Wand	5 A1

Zentralschweizer Alpen, Auswahlführer (6) 2010, German

Route	Difficulty
Südwand (Galengrat-Verschneidung)	5c
Südostsporn	5b
Vom Rhonegletscher über die Südflanke	WS
Vom Tiefengletscher über den Nordgrat	ZS
Von der Oberen Bielenlücke über den Südostgrat	5a
Über den Südostsporn von P. 3365 im Galengrat	3 b