via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat. | Alpinism | Galenstock | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Important notice for mountain sports enthusiasts

Covid certificate obligation in mountain huts

As of 13 September 2021, a valid Covid certificate must be presented for overnight stays and consumption inside mountain huts.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat. Galenstock 3586 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3b
  • Ascent
    5–6 h, 1160 m
  • Descent
    3–4 h, 1160 m

Driving over the Furkapass, the imposing figure of the Galenstock always catches the eye. The mighty snow cornices gives its summit a very special architecture. A rewarding alpine climb leads via Sidelenhütte over the Southeast Spur to P. 3363 - an indistinct bump on the Galenstock's south ridge. This route is often done and, aside from the bit of climbing on the spur does not present any major difficulties. With the increasing glacial retreat, the climb up onto the spur has become a little more laborious and fragile. But there awaits some beautiful and solid rock, which makes for pleasurable climbing. For dessert, the steep snowy ridge leads you to the summit. CAUTION! The summit, indeed the whole summit ridge, invariably sports huge cornices - keep a safe distance.

Route description

Furkapass to the Sidelengletscher

From the Postauto (bus) stop at the Furka Pass (Hotel Furkablick), follow the well trodden footpath towards the Sidelenhütte. After crossing the Sidelenbach (stream), the trail climbs more steeply and leads onto a moraine.

Sidelengletscher to the foot of the South East Spur.

Shortly before the hut (unless you stay there), leave the path and climb in a northwesterly direction towards the left branch of the Sidelen glacier. Pass west beneath the lowest part of the spur (P. 2882 or 'Hannibal tower') and curve up and right onto a snowy shoulder above P. 3013. Negotiate scree and snow fields to the foot of the subsequent, rocky spur.

South East Spur

Climb the initially fragile steps to more solid rock and attack the steeper wall head on. This goes, slightly on the left at a grade of 3a. Continue along a rib to a reddish tower, which is bypassed to the left via a steep channel (3 a). Thereafter, trend back right onto the rib and make a few nice pitches to gain P. 3363. A few bolts protect the ascent.

Firn-ridge to the summit.

Continue on the snow covered south ridge to Galenstock summit (3586 m). Be mindful of the typically huge summit cornices - maintain a safe distance from the edge!

Descent from the summit via the abseil piste.

Retrace your steps, but then continue past P. 3363 to reach P. 3252 on the Galengrat and the abseil point which is marked with cairns and paint (a 50 m single rope is enough). Abseil down to the Sidelen glacier. Descend the glacier and screes to Sidelenbach and continue on the well maintained footpath back to Furkapass.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Furkapass, Hotel Furkablick (2427 m)

Bus service only during the summer months.

History

R. und M. von Wyss, 29. September 1901

Our recommendations

Klettern Oberwallis

Klettern

Klettern Oberwallis

Price CHF 52.00
Member price CHF 44.00
Walliser Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Walliser Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Wetterkunde für Wanderer und Bergsteiger

Ausbildung

Wetterkunde für Wanderer und Bergsteiger

Price CHF 41.00
Member price CHF 34.00
Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Alpine Touren

Selection guide

Alpine Touren Berner Alpen

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Tourenportal Abonnemente

Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Price CHF 42.00
Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Hütten

Bergwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Familienausflüge zu SAC-Hütten

Hütten

Familienausflüge zu SAC-Hütten

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Lebenswelt Alpen

Ausbildung

Lebenswelt Alpen

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Hütten

Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
SAC-Taschenmesser

Ausrüstung

SAC-Taschenmesser

Price CHF 42.00
Member price CHF 38.00
feedback