via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat. | Alpinism

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Galenstock
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via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat.

via the South East Spur and P. 3363 on the Galengrat. Galenstock 3586 m

Difficulty

PD+, 3b
Ascent

5–6 h, 1160 m
Descent

3–4 h, 1160 m

Driving over the Furkapass, the imposing figure of the Galenstock always catches the eye. The mighty snow cornices gives its summit a very special architecture. A rewarding alpine climb leads via Sidelenhütte over the Southeast Spur to P. 3363 - an indistinct bump on the Galenstock's south ridge. This route is often done and, aside from the bit of climbing on the spur does not present any major difficulties. With the increasing glacial retreat, the climb up onto the spur has become a little more laborious and fragile. But there awaits some beautiful and solid rock, which makes for pleasurable climbing. For dessert, the steep snowy ridge leads you to the summit. CAUTION! The summit, indeed the whole summit ridge, invariably sports huge cornices - keep a safe distance.

The Galenstock with its obvious snow hat dominates the landscape at Furkapass. (Route via the South East Spur) (08/2016) © Müller Bruno

The last clouds pass through the Ursern Valley, while the warm sun shines on the SE spur. (06/2016) © Müller Bruno

Start of the actual climbing on the south east Spur. From here the the rock is solid and offers great climbing. (09/2010) © Simon Müller

Cornel Suter enjoying the beautiful rock of the south east spur. (09/2011) © Cornel Suter

The summit slope of the Galenstock, still very white in early summer. (06/2016) © Müller Bruno

One of the well equipped abseil stands. © Dan Moore

The abseil piste Topo. (2010) © Christoph Moser

Route description

Furkapass to the Sidelengletscher

From the Postauto (bus) stop at the Furka Pass (Hotel Furkablick), follow the well trodden footpath towards the Sidelenhütte. After crossing the Sidelenbach (stream), the trail climbs more steeply and leads onto a moraine.

Sidelengletscher to the foot of the South East Spur.

Shortly before the hut (unless you stay there), leave the path and climb in a northwesterly direction towards the left branch of the Sidelen glacier. Pass west beneath the lowest part of the spur (P. 2882 or 'Hannibal tower') and curve up and right onto a snowy shoulder above P. 3013. Negotiate scree and snow fields to the foot of the subsequent, rocky spur.

South East Spur

Climb the initially fragile steps to more solid rock and attack the steeper wall head on. This goes, slightly on the left at a grade of 3a. Continue along a rib to a reddish tower, which is bypassed to the left via a steep channel (3 a). Thereafter, trend back right onto the rib and make a few nice pitches to gain P. 3363. A few bolts protect the ascent.

Firn-ridge to the summit.

Continue on the snow covered south ridge to Galenstock summit (3586 m). Be mindful of the typically huge summit cornices - maintain a safe distance from the edge!

Descent from the summit via the abseil piste.

Retrace your steps, but then continue past P. 3363 to reach P. 3252 on the Galengrat and the abseil point which is marked with cairns and paint (a 50 m single rope is enough). Abseil down to the Sidelen glacier. Descend the glacier and screes to Sidelenbach and continue on the well maintained footpath back to Furkapass.