Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Claridenhütte SAC via the Gemsfairenjoch (saddle) Gemsfairenstock 2971 m

  • Difficulty
    F, I
  • Ascent
    2–2:30 h, 520 m
  • Descent
    1–2 h, 520 m

Short and rewarding snow tour, which has become more demanding in recent years due to the loss of perennial snow around the Gemsfairenjoch. The best time of year to make this tour is in early summer, when winter snow still connects the Claridenfirn (glacier) with the Gemsfairenjoch (saddle). The upper part of the west ridge offers a magnificent view and is pure enjoyment!

Route description

Claridenhütte - Claridenfirn

From the Claridenhütte, follow the marked path (Steinmännchen) to the lowest point of the Claridenfirn (glacier).

Claridenfirn - Gemsfairenjoch - Gemsfairenstock

Turn gradually northwest towards Gemsfairenjoch (P. 2846) making use of the connecting snow field. In late winter it might be snow all the way, while in summer the last section of the climb will be rock. From the Gemsfairenjoch, climb eastwards along the ridge slightly on its northern side, later taking it direct, to reach the summit of the Gemsfaienstock.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Difficulty

The route has been continuously marked in blue and white since 2020 and has a difficulty of T4.

Waypoints
History

Studer and Streckeisen with Maduz and Zweifel, 15. August 1854

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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