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The obligation to book in advance also applies to any overnight stay in a winter quarter or SAC shelter. The website of each hut will provide you with information on how to book your berth.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From Hinterbalm via the Westflank (Normal route) Gross Düssi / Piz Git 3256 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2b
  • Ascent
    4–4:30 h, 1436 m
  • Descent
    3–3:30 h, 1436 m

The rear Maderanertal is impressively dominated by the shapely Gross Düssi. The mighty pyramid is a popular tour destination and is usually climbed from the Alp Hinterbalm. As an ideal starting point, we recommend the simple and very cozy Hinterbalmhütte, which is run privately. The partially marked route through the western flank requires some sense for the best line, but is relatively easy in terms of technical difficulty. The short passages in the rock are straightforward, but require a bit of effort and can become tricky when icy. In early summer, as long as old snow fields are still present, axes and crampons are an advantage. With a little luck, the large colony of ibex living here can also be spotted.

Route description

Hinterbalm - Schattig Düssi

From Alp Hinterbalm (1820 m) climb directly to the north and soon reach the huts of Düssi (1924 m). Then bear eastwards to Düssifed and over grass and debris into the valley of Schattig Düssi. Stone cairns and color markers show the way on this section.

Schattig Düssi - South Ridge - Gross Düssi

Now climb over scree or snow fields up to a gully descending from the Chli Düssi. At the beginning of the gully, colour markings show the way over the lefthand rocks of this gully. The rocks are easy to get through, but require some work, and can be tricky when verglassed. In good snow conditions, the gully can also be climbed directly. In the upper part of the western flank you must again ascend scree slopes, a bit of a grind, to gain the south ridge. Continue along the faint tracks of the south ridge to join the summit cross.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
History

C. Hauser, V. Haller, J. M. Tresch Jun. and H. Elmer, 1866

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