From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau' | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From Obererbs over the 'Vorbau' Gross Kärpf / Gross Chärpf 2793 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+, 3b
  • Ascent
    3:30–5 h, 1100 m
  • Descent
    2:30–4 h, 1100 m

The 'Vorbau' is probably the most interesting way to access the Gross Kärpf. No route to the Gross Kärpf is easy. Without the few key climbing holds in the summit structure it would be unreachable. On top is a first-class view of the Glarus Unterland; probably the best ever. With a little luck you will see ibex.

Route description

(Steinibach) Obererbs - Hanegg - above the Rotstock
From Steinibach head up valley along the road, then take the zigzag footpath steeply up to Obererbs (Skihütte). From Obererbs continue on the marked footpath over Hanegg (2034 m) up to the right of Rotstock onto the flat grassy shoulder at 2400 m. Here, the normal path leads on to the Kärpfscharte (col) separating the Grosse Kärpf (south) from the small Kärpf (north).
Grassy shoulder (2400 m) - Vorbau - Skidepot
Head left onto the scree covered ridge leading to a striking tower. Slightly right (east) of the ridge, climb up through a chimney, then a follow a crock system, first slightly right, then later over less steep slabs left back up to the ridge. Descend slightly from P. 2610th, then climb diagonally left up the following scree slope. Follow it up into another short slabby chimney (iron bars), and bear left onto the south ridge (ski depot in winter) and the normal route.
Skidepot - Gross Kärpf
Climb the first hard steps of the south ridge, later bypassing the steeper section by moving onto the south wall (iron bars) and reach the summit in easy climbing.
Descent
Descend the route of ascent with some abseiling on the vorbau, or go down the normal route.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Elm, Obererbs (1690 m)

Busbetrieb nur im Sommerhalbjahr: www.sernftalbus.ch/obererbs/index.html

Time

Ascending from Elm (Steinibach) takes a good hour longer.

Difficulty

The 'vorbau' and the summit structure above the ski depot were equipped in 2011 with a few iron bars and a few bolts for rope safety. A 30-metre rope is enough.

Waypoints

Elm, Steinibach (1111 m)

Ausgangspunkt, wenn nicht mit Bus/PW bis Obererbs gefahren wird.

History

Since just 2018 the name Kärpf is officially written with a K and not with Ch anymore.

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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