From the Planurahütte SAC via the East Ridge. | Alpinism | Gross Schärhorn | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

From the Planurahütte SAC via the East Ridge. (Normal route) Gross Schärhorn 3295 m

  • Difficulty
    PD
  • Ascent
    3–4 h, 450 m
  • Descent
    2:30–3:30 h, 450 m

The Gross- and Chli Schärhorn form a striking double summit, sharp as a pair of scissors (hence the name schäre/scissors). The crevassed glaciers, the great open expanse around the Planurahütte and the steep summit structure all give a climb of the Schärhorn that proper alpine feel.

Route description

Planurahütte - Hüfifirn - Gross Schärhorn

Traverse the watershed to Claridenpass, then drop down onto the glacial plateau and cross over to the foot of the Chammlihoren. Pass left (south) of its rocky buttress before turning up towards the Chammlilücke. From the Chammlilücke, arc round onto the most northeastern rocks of the Gross Schärhorn. Clamber over scree on faint tracks to a flat shoulder on the east ridge. Continue direct up the east ridge, or better, traverse to the left (south) over scree and firn and approach the summit from the south.

Variant: Lower (southern) route over Hüfifirn

Descend from the Planurahütte westwards onto a lower plateau of the Hüfifirn, cross this and climb back up the opposite side where the least crevasses are, to gain the gentle slope which leads to the Chammilücke (about the same amount of time as normal route). A good option with skis - more turns!

Descent

Follow the Route of Ascent.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Time

The time depends heavily on the snow conditions. In normal conditions, it pays to start the tour in the early morning hours, when the snow is more firm.

Waypoints

Chammlilücke (2833 m)

Meist biegt man bereits vor dem tiefsten Punkt der Chammlilücke nach Westen ab.

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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