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- Difficulty
- 6b+ (5c+)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 7 P / 200 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- S / Granite
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- Altitude start
- 2511 m
The most popular tour on the Gross Schijen's south ridge. Gorgeous crack- and layback climbing.
Route description
South Ridge Direct
See Route Topo
Descent Gross Schijen South Ridge
Descent on foot: Climb over the ridge a bit further (ca. 2 pitches, grade 2 to 3c, hardly any bolts) till you reach a grassy saddle. From here, tracks lead on to the summit, as well as back down to start of the route. Down leads through the grassy SW flank to a distinct gully. Follow this down (a few scrambling/down climbing sections, abseil possible) to reach the base of the crag. This descent requires appropriate footwear and some practice in such terrain.
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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2x50m
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Quick draws
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12
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Stoppers
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✔
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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++
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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6b+ oder 5c+ 2 p.a.
- Protection / Material
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Well bolted. Nuts and Friends also worth taking.
- History
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Bruno Honegger, Andy Müller 1995.
