South Ridge Direct | Alpine climbing | Gross Schijen (UR) | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Slab Ridge

South Ridge Direct Gross Schijen (UR) 2786 m

  • Difficulty
    6b+ (5c+)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    7 P / 200 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    S / Granite
  • Altitude start
    2511 m

The most popular tour on the Gross Schijen's south ridge. Gorgeous crack- and layback climbing.

Route description

South Ridge Direct

See Route Topo

Descent Gross Schijen South Ridge

Descent on foot: Climb over the ridge a bit further (ca. 2 pitches, grade 2 to 3c, hardly any bolts) till you reach a grassy saddle. From here, tracks lead on to the summit, as well as back down to start of the route. Down leads through the grassy SW flank to a distinct gully. Follow this down (a few scrambling/down climbing sections, abseil possible) to reach the base of the crag. This descent requires appropriate footwear and some practice in such terrain.

Additional information

Protection
Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope
2x50m
Quick draws
12
Stoppers
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
-
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

6b+ oder 5c+ 2 p.a.

Protection / Material

Well bolted. Nuts and Friends also worth taking.

History

Bruno Honegger, Andy Müller 1995.

Our recommendations

Gipfelziele Engadin

Berg- und Alpinwandern

Gipfelziele Engadin

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Wetterkunde für Wanderer und Bergsteiger

Ausbildung

Wetterkunde für Wanderer und Bergsteiger

Price CHF 41.00
Member price CHF 34.00
Klettern Kombipaket Berner Oberland

Klettern

Klettern Kombipaket Berner Oberland

Price CHF 98.00
Member price CHF 79.00
Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Tourenportal Abonnemente

Tourenportal Jahres-Abo

Price CHF 42.00
Familienausflüge zu SAC-Hütten

Hütten

Familienausflüge zu SAC-Hütten

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Kletterführer Glarus

Klettern

Kletterführer Glarus

Price CHF 59.00
Member price CHF 49.00
Graubünden Süd

Skitouren

Graubünden Süd

Price CHF 44.00
Member price CHF 34.00
Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Hütten

Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 49.00
Member price CHF 39.00
Kombipaket Bergwandern und Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Berg- und Alpinwandern

Kombipaket Bergwandern und Alpinwandern von Hütte zu Hütte

Price CHF 88.00
Member price CHF 68.00
SAC-Taschenmesser

Ausrüstung

SAC-Taschenmesser

Price CHF 42.00
Member price CHF 38.00
feedback