South ridge from the Kröntenhütte | Alpinism | Gross Spannort | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

South ridge from the Kröntenhütte (Normal route) Gross Spannort 3198 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 3a
  • Ascent
    4:30–5 h, 1295 m
  • Descent
    3:30–4 h, 1295 m

After a leisurely glacier hike over the Glatt Firn, this interesting high-altitude tour becomes surprisingly engaging. Several steep steps, which are overcome in a short pitches, guard access to the summit. Arriving by the summit cross, you can enjoy a breathtaking view into the Engelberg valley and the Alp Surenen, which is geographically illogical but historically important to the county of Uri. The steep sections are easily overcome in descent by abseiling. Depending on the height of the snow field, the last abseil sometimes requires a 60 m long rope. Thereafter begins the long way back over the gentle glacier to the Graw Stock and further on to the Kröntenhütte.

Route description

Kröntenhütte - Graw Stock

From the Krönten hut (1903 m) a path lead into the basin of the Obersee. Head west and pass P. 1969 to climb the Mändliteifi, before rising parallel to the north rib of the Graw Stock (on its lefthand side), to reach the its highpoint (2453 m) below the Glatt Firns glacier.

Graw Stock - Glatt Firn - Spannortjoch pass.

Rocky steps provide access via P. 2570 onto the Glatt Firn. Ascend the gently sloping glacier, turning westwards in a large arc to reach the gap between the Chli and Gross Spannort (Spannortjoch, 2902 m).

Spannortjoch - Gross Spannort

From the Spannortjoch, climb steeply over scree or snow to a couloir (fixed rope) and right into the first rocks (3a). Faint tracks lead to the second rock level, which is overcome by a chimney (2b). After a scree field, the third step follows with a short corner crack (3a), before the subsequent firn field leads to the summit. In all rock steps one finds occasional bolts and belays for protection.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent. The steeper steps on the south ridge can be overcome by abseiling. The abseils are equipped, but not always easy to find. Note their surroundings during your ascent. The 'vorbau' can also be roped off. The stand is about 25 meters east of the ascent route. The abseiling requires at least a 50m, with advantage given by a 60m rope.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Waypoints

Graw Stock (2453 m)

Unscheinbare Erhebung westlich der Kröntenhütte. Der gut markierte Weg und der schöne Tiefblick ins Erstfeldertal machen den Graw Stock zu einem empfehlenswerten Ziel bei unsicherem Wetter oder als Halbtagestour von der Kröntenhütte aus.

Spannortjoch (2902 m)

Sattel zwischen Chli und Gross Spannort, der den Zugang zum Gross-Spannort-Südgrat vermittelt.

History

W. Mansell, F. E. Thompson, R. Spankie, J. Sowerby, J. M. Tresch and A. Zgraggen, 1867. This ascent was from Engelberg. The team used the south ridge as the final climb to the summit.

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