Via the West Flank and West Ridge (Normal route) Grosser Piz Buin / Piz Buin Grond 3312 m
- PD, 2b
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1060 m
- 2:30–3:30 h, 1060 m
Chamonna Tuoi hut to the Silvrettagletscher, then via Fuorcla dal Cunfin into Vorarlberg.
From the Chamonna Tuoi hut, follow the trail north to approximately P. 2517. From there continue westwards over moraine to pass north of Cronsel P. 2669. Continue, following cairns to Plan Rai, trend up and right into a gap north of Plan Mezdi (P. 2918), then descend slightly to reach the Glacier La Cudera.
From the Glacier la Cudera ascend to Fuorcla dal Cunfin. If the snow is thin, the Fuorcla has an obvious rock rib to follow, which is reached via scree and slabs. If there is no snow left on Fuorcla dal Cunfin, its better to traverse 150 m further south-east (direction Kleiner Buin) passing a saddle ca. 3050m. From there, descend slightly onto the Ochsentaler Glacier and cross the basin north of the Kleiner Buin to reach to the gap between the Kleiner- and Grosser Buin, labled Fuorcla Buin. Attention: in the area of the Fuorcla Buin rockfall from the Piz Buin Pitschen is possible, in this case it is better to climb towards the Piz Buin Grond.
From the saddle, follow tracks over scree left (northeastwards) to a small shoulder in the WNW ridge. Now follow this ridge, climbing simple rock steps, until an exposed traverse leads left into the N-flank and the start of a short and simple "chimney". Climb the chimney 20 m (II-) then continue easier again on faint tracks across the summit cap to the highest point.
From the Silvretta Hut, follow a marked trail in the direction of the Rote Furka until you reach P. 2553. Now, walk horizontally past the beautiful glacier lake and onto the glacier.
From the northwestern edge of the glacier, ascend the initially flat glacier field directly to the foot of the Egghorn. Shortly before the W-spur of the Egghorn bear more to the south onto steeper terrain and weave between the large "Egghorn crevasses". Onto the upper glacier basin and the Silvretta Pass. Head east-southeast beneath the Signalhorn to reach the Fuorcla dal Cunfinm where you join the normal route. If the snow is thin, an obvious rock rib leads up to the pass.
Follow the route of ascent, or the variant to the Silvrettahütte.
- Departure point
Achtung: wegen Felsssturzgefahr aus der Buin Südflanke wird die Route im ersten Teil voraussichtlich in den Bereich der Skiroute südlich Cronsel verlegt werden!
J. Weilenmann and J.A. Specht with F. Pöll and J. Pfitscher on 14. July 1865