East-West traverse of the Lobhörner | Alpine climbing

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Grosses Lobhorn
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- East-West traverse of the Lobhörner
East-West traverse of the Lobhörner

East-West traverse of the Lobhörner (Normal route) Grosses Lobhorn 2565 m

Difficulty

4c ()
Pitches / Height Difference

12 P / 3–5 h
Exposition / Rock Type

E, SE, S / Limestone
Altitude start

2420 m

The five rock towers which form the Lobhörner stand in isolation on a flat ridge above Sulwald like a mini Dolomite formation. Even from the city of Thun, this strange formation from the Jungfrau region can be seen. A beautiful mountain hike leads past the Lobhornhütte and up to the sunny cliff face. The traverse of the Lobhörner took place before 1900 and has remained a popular tour among alpine climbers because of the great views of the high Alps. The east-west traverse offers a variety of interesting passages. The rock is not everywhere solid, but the difficulties are small. There are a number of difficult sport routes on the south-exposed walls, but not all of them lead to the main summit.

The first 3 pitches on the Eastern end of the Lobhörner, pictured in spring. © Gerber Martin

Traverse of the Lobhörner, seen here in spring. © Gerber Martin

The 1997 Topo Clubführer Berner Voralpen serves as an orientation aid - the marked pitons and the difficulty information are not up to date. (1997) © SAC-CAS

The abseil from the Zipfelmütze © Gerber Martin

Last pitch of the traverse on the Grosse Lobhorn © Gerber Martin

Wintery scene looking from the west upon the Grosse Lobhorn. © Gerber Martin

Route description

Approach

Related route: Approach to the Lobhörner

East-West Traverse of the Lobhörner

See Topo

Descent from Gross Lobhorn

The descent from the summit leads to the west. 2x abseils, 15 then 20 m start from a large ring-bolt. Down climb further over the stepped ridge. A second large ring bolt with a steel cable attached represents the final descent of the tour (2 more short abseils). From the flat saddle at the western end simply follow the footpath back along the cliff base to the start of the route and the further descent to Sulwald.

Additional information

Protection: Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope: 50m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: -
Ski approach possible: ✔
Glacier equipment: -

Time: Climbing time depends very much on rope handling and routine in alternating between walking, climbing and abseiling. With the ascent and descent, a day-long undertaking for most rope teams.