COVID-19

As of 11 May, the SAC huts will be allowed to open and section tours will be possible again - however, some restrictions will remain in force.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

NW-Grat, Leiterngrat (Normal route) Gspaltenhorn 3436 m

  • Difficulty
    AD-, 2b
  • Ascent
    3:30–4:30 h, 1000 m
  • Descent
    30 m

Beautiful and highly recommended tour starting at the Gspaltenhornhütte. Overall the rock quality on and around this peak is rather bad. On the ridge itself however, its mostly good. The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018. The route, including the approach, is usually completely snow-free during high summer. Without snow the ascent over loose scree, which takes you to the saddle, is rather tedious. The ridge itself while being more technical, is far more enjoyable. Following stormy weather, the rocks are often icy, and crampons/ice axe should be carried (being a north ridge, any snow that does fall is likely to hang around a while). Be prepared and call ahead if you have any doubts; the friendly team of the Gspaltenhornhütte will provide you with up-to-date info.

Route description

Gspaltenhornhütte - P. 3222

From the Gspaltenhornhütte (2455 m), follow tracks (at first very clear) northeastward over screes towards the the foot of Bütlasse's impressive south face. As you gain height, the path becomes increasingly vague; head for a blocky gully, keep right at the top of it, then climb straight up to the base of the cliff. Continue along the cliff base to reach the Bütlassesattel (3020 m, 1.5 hours from the hut). From here follow good tracks over talus to the foot of a rocky shoulder at P. 3222.

P. 3222 - Gspaltenhorn

Climb the rocky ridge from P. 3222 (2b) and descend from the last tower rightwards, then through a chimney to a broad saddle. These last towers before the saddle can also be bypassed on the east side (not often done). Follow the ridge and reach the foot of the 'Böse Tritt' - or the 'Bad Step' - over (possibly snowy) slabs. It looks steep but there are incredibly good holds and some fixed ropes. Continue over exposed but easier ground, marked with metal bars, to the summit. The view is expansive: from the Wetterhorn in the east, all the way to Mont Blanc in the west - how many peaks can you name?

Additional information

Departure point
Time

Die Zeit ist stark von den Verhältnissen abhängig.

Difficulty

The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018.

Waypoints
History

G. E. Forster with J. Anderegg and H. Baumann, 10. July 1869

Author

Bernhard Senn

Bernhard Senn is a physiotherapist specializing in workplace ergonomics and workplace health promotion. Bernhard has been an SAC author since 2013 and will often be found 'out and about' in the mountains; whether with rock gear, skis, mountain bike or paraglider.

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