NW-Grat, Leiterngrat (Normal route) Gspaltenhorn 3436 m
- AD-, 2b
- 3:30–4:30 h, 1000 m
- 30 m
Beautiful and highly recommended tour starting at the Gspaltenhornhütte. Overall the rock quality on and around this peak is rather bad. On the ridge itself however, its mostly good. The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018. The route, including the approach, is usually completely snow-free during high summer. Without snow the ascent over loose scree, which takes you to the saddle, is rather tedious. The ridge itself while being more technical, is far more enjoyable. Following stormy weather, the rocks are often icy, and crampons/ice axe should be carried (being a north ridge, any snow that does fall is likely to hang around a while). Be prepared and call ahead if you have any doubts; the friendly team of the Gspaltenhornhütte will provide you with up-to-date info.
From the Gspaltenhornhütte (2455 m), follow tracks (at first very clear) northeastward over screes towards the the foot of Bütlasse's impressive south face. As you gain height, the path becomes increasingly vague; head for a blocky gully, keep right at the top of it, then climb straight up to the base of the cliff. Continue along the cliff base to reach the Bütlassesattel (3020 m, 1.5 hours from the hut). From here follow good tracks over talus to the foot of a rocky shoulder at P. 3222.
Climb the rocky ridge from P. 3222 (2b) and descend from the last tower rightwards, then through a chimney to a broad saddle. These last towers before the saddle can also be bypassed on the east side (not often done). Follow the ridge and reach the foot of the 'Böse Tritt' - or the 'Bad Step' - over (possibly snowy) slabs. It looks steep but there are incredibly good holds and some fixed ropes. Continue over exposed but easier ground, marked with metal bars, to the summit. The view is expansive: from the Wetterhorn in the east, all the way to Mont Blanc in the west - how many peaks can you name?
- Departure point
Die Zeit ist stark von den Verhältnissen abhängig.
The route has become a little more demanding but also more interesting: New solid iron poles and some intermediate bolts were installed since the fixed ropes and other old equipment were removed or replaced in fall 2018.
G. E. Forster with J. Anderegg and H. Baumann, 10. July 1869