From Eigergletscher Station | Mountain hiking | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From Eigergletscher Station (Normal route) Guggihütte SAC 2791 m

  • Difficulty
    T4
  • Ascent
    2:30–3 h, 700 m
  • Descent
    230 m

Alpine hiking route with north face atmosphere.

The spectacularly situated Guggihütte serves as a starting point for a number of challenging routes on the Mönch's north face - the most famous being the Nollen and Lauper routes. For experienced mountain hikers, provided stable weather and good conditions (no snow and ice) abound, the hut can also be a worthwhile goal in its own right, the hike already soaking up some of that north face atmosphere. The normal starting point (it is also possible to start from Kleine Scheidegg) is the Eigergletscher station at 2319 m on the foot of the Eiger's west flank. From here, a quick descent brings you 200 vertical metres down onto the polished rocks below the Eigergletscher. The re-ascent is marked and leads over the north west flank of the Mönch in the direction of the Mönchplateau. On a small outcrop, on the right hand side looking up, the Guggihütte stands. Note: It is easy to miss the hut in a white out and climb too high!

Route description

Station Eigergletscher to a point on the moraine ca. 2175m
From the Eigergletscher station (2320 m) descend the mountain trail along the moraine's crest about 500 m to around 2175 m, where the path from Kleine Scheidegg cuts across the crest.
From the moraine to the Guggihütte SAC
Shortly after a signpost (P. 2211, for Kleine Scheidegg) turn left (south east) down the side of the moraine on the blue and white marked alpine trail. Continue on flat, glacier polished rocks and screes to the Trimmelbach stream. Cross the stream at P. 2098 m and continue to follow the blue-white markings back up over debris and rock steps onto the Mönch's northwest flank, which separates the Eiger- and Guggigletscher. Initially leading to the left side of the flank, the final stretch takes you diagonally back right to gain the hut at 2796 m. Don't miss the turning!
Kleine Scheidegg - Moränenkrete - Guggihütte
The path to Guggihütte can also be easily reached from Kleine Scheidegg (2061 m), taking just under 30 minutes longer on foot, but with a shorter (and cheaper) train journey.

Additional information

Departure point

Station Eigergletscher (2320 m)

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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