West Ridge Gwächtenhorn (Steingletscher) 3404 m
- PD, 2a
- 2:30–3:30 h, 630 m
- 1:30–2 h, 630 m
The heavily glaciated mountain landscape, with the great bulks of Susten - and Gwächtenhorn, is impressive to all who journey over the Sustenpass. From the main road at Steingletscher the Gwächtenhorn in particular dominates the scenery. Presenting a satisfactory traverse through varied terrain, the West Ridge of the Gwächtenhorn has grown increasingly popular as a training tour. After an easy romp up the glacier, the real climbing begins at the Tierberglimi / Chelenlücke (col), where good scrambling over the exposed but never difficult ridge, leads all the way to the summit. The descent is again easy, following the normal East Flank route in a wide arc via the Sustenlimi and back down to the Tierberglihütte.
From the Tierbergli Hut (2797 m) you climb over the fractured Steigletscher to the southwest and reach the Tierberglimi or the Chelenlücke (3194 m).
Climbing up steeper firn and a rock step you gain the eastern most reaches of the exposed West Ridge. Its jagged rocks are taken as directly as possible (climbing up to 2a) and lead you steadily up, all the way to the summit.
The descent follows the East Flank route. To avoid crevasses, continue as far as possible towards the Sustenlimi, before swinging to the northwest and refreshment at the Tierberglihütte.