West Ridge | Alpinism | Gwächtenhorn (Steingletscher) | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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As of 13 September 2021, a valid Covid certificate must be presented for overnight stays and consumption inside mountain huts.

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

West Ridge Gwächtenhorn (Steingletscher) 3404 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 2a
  • Ascent
    2:30–3:30 h, 630 m
  • Descent
    1:30–2 h, 630 m

The heavily glaciated mountain landscape, with the great bulks of Susten - and Gwächtenhorn, is impressive to all who journey over the Sustenpass. From the main road at Steingletscher the Gwächtenhorn in particular dominates the scenery. Presenting a satisfactory traverse through varied terrain, the West Ridge of the Gwächtenhorn has grown increasingly popular as a training tour. After an easy romp up the glacier, the real climbing begins at the Tierberglimi / Chelenlücke (col), where good scrambling over the exposed but never difficult ridge, leads all the way to the summit. The descent is again easy, following the normal East Flank route in a wide arc via the Sustenlimi and back down to the Tierberglihütte.

Route description

From the hut to the Chelenlücke (col)

From the Tierbergli Hut (2797 m) you climb over the fractured Steigletscher to the southwest and reach the Tierberglimi or the Chelenlücke (3194 m).

West Ridge to the summit

Climbing up steeper firn and a rock step you gain the eastern most reaches of the exposed West Ridge. Its jagged rocks are taken as directly as possible (climbing up to 2a) and lead you steadily up, all the way to the summit.

Descent from the summit to the hut.

The descent follows the East Flank route. To avoid crevasses, continue as far as possible towards the Sustenlimi, before swinging to the northwest and refreshment at the Tierberglihütte.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Difficulty

The key section is often the climb up to the ridge, especially if it is icy.

Waypoints

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