East Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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East Ridge (Normal route) Hausstock 3158 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, 3b
  • Ascent
    6–7 h, 1860 m
  • Descent
    3–4 h, 1860 m

A most rewarding route, also good as a descent when the eastern flank is out of action. The east ridge was equipped with iron bars in the summer of 2011 by the Glarus Mountain Guide Association. These are used to secure the rope both in ascent and descent; they do not affect the difficulty. The ridge itself can now be gained without setting foot on the Glatscher da Mer.

Route description

Wichlen - Panixerpass
From Wichlen follow the footpath up to the Panxierpass.
Panixerpass - Mergletscher
From the top of the pass, descend on the Bündner side down to flatter ground before bearing right to follow a brook northwest. Continue over the scree to reach a mound on the eastern moraine of the Glatscher da Mer (pt. 2595). Contour and climb gently from here over to the lowest point in the Hausstock's east ridge.
Mergletscher - East Ridge - Hausstock
Climb scree slopes onto the rocky heights, take the ridge for the most part direct; in the upper third trend left once onto the south side before regaining the ridge and a last steeper section. Finally the ridge broadens and leads you pleasantly round to the highest point.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent. From the Panixerhütte you can alternatively descend the Surselva side and Pignu (T3, 3 hours).

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Wichlen, Walenbrugg (1291 m)

Von der Haltestelle Elm, Büelstafel in 800 m (10 Min.) zum Ausgangspunkt.

Busbetrieb nur im Sommerhalbjahr: www.sernftalbus.ch/obererbs/index.html

Time

If you stay overnight in the Panixerpass hut, the ascent time is divided into two stages:

 

From Wichlen to Panixer Pass: 3 hours.

From Panixerpass to the Hausstock: 3-4 hours.

Panixerpasshütte (2407 m)

With an overnight stay before or after climbing the Hausstock the otherwise quite long day trip can be distributed over a day and a half.

Author

Hansueli Rhyner

Hansueli Rhyner ist Bergführer und Skilehrer und seit 2011 SAC-Autor. Er arbeitet am WSL-Institut für Schnee und Lawinenforschung SLF als Leiter der Forschungsgruppe Industrieprojekte und Schneesport und ist zudem Gutachter bei Bergunfällen und Mitglied des Kern-Ausbildungsteams Lawinenprävention KAT.

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