From Heiligkreuz via the Southwest-Flank (Normal route) Helsenhorn 3272 m
- F, I
- 6–7 h, 1823 m
- 31 m
The first ascent of this route is attributed to the Alpine pioneer and co-founder of the SAC Johann Jakob Weilenmann, who climbed it solo. In 1887 Weilenmann was 68 years old. From Heiligkreuz the route leads in Chummibort over the Helsegletscher to the SE ridge and over this to the summit.
From Heiligkreuz (1472 m), pass the Werkbahn cable car station (1458 m) and climb west of the stream up to Gibelmatte (1774 m). Continue via Bodi (1997 m) to the Einigehitte, the terminus of the Werkbahn (2092 m) and the entrance to the Chummibort. The marked trail crosses the stream and continues along the valley floor to P. 2141. From here, climb steeply up below P. 2392, then up beside a stream until the trail turns off at P. 2672 in the direction of Ritterpass.
From P. 2672 turn left (opposite direction to Ritterpass) and then bear east to the Helsegletscher (or what is left of it). From the upper left-hand corner, a few scree/ firn fields lead up to the start of the SE ridge, a tower at P. 3228. Easy climbing over loose rubble brings you to the remote summit of Helsenhorn (3272 m).
Follow the route of ascent.
- Departure point
Heiligkreuz (VS) (1459 m)
From the bus stop Binn, Langthal in 2.5 km and 100 m (30 min.) or with alpentaxi.ch to the starting point.
First ascent most likely Johann Jakob Weilenmann, in August 1887.