Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Via the North Ridge. (Normal route) Il Chapütschin 3386 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    3 h, 780 m

Easy beginner tour from the Chamanna da Coaz (hut). The crossing of the glacier is straightforward but you must still have the necessary equipment and skills.

Route description

Chamanna Coaz hut - P. 2820

From the hut, follow a good footpath NW to an obvious, broad moraine rib. Turn left up this and follow it to P. 2820, and the start of more rocky terrain.

P. 2820 - Il Chapütschin

From P. 2820 continue southwest onto Vadret dal Chapütschin (glacier). Climb this up to the north ridge, which is entered about 300 m south of P. 3206. Follow the N-ridge easily to the summit.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
History

FA by Johann Coaz with a local guide on 23. July 1850.

Authors

Marcel Schenk

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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