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Il Chapütschin
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- Via the North Ridge.
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Via the North Ridge.

Via the North Ridge. (Normal route) Il Chapütschin 3386 m

Difficulty

PD, I
Ascent

3 h, 780 m

Easy beginner tour from the Chamanna da Coaz (hut). The crossing of the glacier is straightforward but you must still have the necessary equipment and skills.

Il Chapütschin with the Norht Ridge Route (blue). (09/2018) © Toni Spirig

On the way down the Vadret dal Chapütschin. (07/2020) © Heinz Hardegger

View from the summit. (07/2020) © Heinz Hardegger

Piz Glüschaint, La Muongia and Il Chapütschin. (07/2018) © Toni Spirig

Route description

Chamanna Coaz hut - P. 2820

From the hut, follow a good footpath NW to an obvious, broad moraine rib. Turn left up this and follow it to P. 2820, and the start of more rocky terrain.

P. 2820 - Il Chapütschin

From P. 2820 continue southwest onto Vadret dal Chapütschin (glacier). Climb this up to the north ridge, which is entered about 300 m south of P. 3206. Follow the N-ridge easily to the summit.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point

Chamanna Coaz CAS (2610 m)

History: FA by Johann Coaz with a local guide on 23. July 1850.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.