West face (from Monte-Moro-Pass) | Mountain hiking | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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West face (from Monte-Moro-Pass) (Normal route) Joderhorn 3035 m

  • Difficulty
    T4
  • Ascent
    3:30 h, 880 m
  • Descent
    3 h, 880 m

Rewarding pyramid-like peak made of talus offering an opportunity to observe ibex

Right at the start of the hike on the dam of Mattmark lake the dark Joderhorn is visible on the horizon. From the end of the reservoir the trail ascends in pastures to Tälliboden overgrown with cotton grass and continues along inclined rock ledges and on blockfields up to the col. It is easier to climb the summit face, which is almost entirely made of blockfields, than it appears from the col. Often on the Italian side ibex are grazing on the ledges between the rocks. Joderhorn is a fantastic vantage point, which provides an impressive insight into the Monte Rosa east face nearby.

Route description

Mattmark – Monte-Moro-Pass
From Mattmark follow the road along the western shore of the lake to Alp Distel. Continue on the gently ascending hiking trail in pastures to reach Tälliboden. Along inclined rocky ledges, slabs and on blockfields with occasional huge boulders the well frequented, old mule trail leads up to Monte-Moro-Pass (2852 m). East of the col the peaks of the Monte Rosa range are reflected in small lakes uncharted on the map.
Monte-Moro-Pass – Joderhorn
From Monte-Moro-Pass you reach the foot of Joderhorn by hiking eastward on rock crests and scree. Ascending in the left part (seen from below) of the face, one reaches, past a few cairns, the summit on stable, settled blockfields.
Descent
Descend to Mattmark on the same route.
Alternative descent 1: through the upper Ofental
Instead of descending to Monte-Moro-Pass, roughly at an altitude of 2880 m follow the faint path (cairns) through the remains of Tällibodengletscher covered with scree to reach Mondellipass. Beware of unstable blocks! After the cross, faint paths lead you past a small mountain lake and on scree, blockfields and slabs towards Galmenhorn. Above P. 2792 continue on faint paths to the north side (slabs) of this peak and descend to Ofental and on to Mattmark. Joderhorn – Mondellipass – Ofental – Mattmark 3½ h, T4.
Alternative descent 2: through the lower Ofental
Start on the same route as variant 1: instead of descending to Monte-Moro-Pass, roughly at an altitude of 2880 m follow the faint path through the remains of Tällibodengletscher covered with scree to reach Mondellipass. After the cross faint paths lead you past a small mountain lake and on scree, blockfields and slabs towards Galmenhorn. Before P. 2792 now descend on the grass and scree slopes of Galmen, until you meet the mountain path at an altitude of ca. 2560 m, which on the foot of Galmenhorn leads to Ofental and on to Mattmark. Joderhorn – Mondellipass – Ofental – Mattmark 3½ h, T4.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Mattmark, Dam (2204 m)

Bus service only during the summer months.

Difficulty / Material

Until Monte-Moro-Pass there is a mountain trail. Further on you hike pathless on rocky crests and blockfields up to the summit.

Waypoints

Monte Moropass (2845 m)

Col below Joderhorn.

Mondellipass (2830 m)

Col on the alternative descents.

Uf de Galkernen (2905 m)

Col at Monte Moro (neighbour summit).

Neighbor summit

Monte Moro (2984 m)

Monte Moro (2984 m): from Monte-Moro-Pass ascend the stairs to the golden Madonna and follow the scree and rock ridge. After a short descent to P. 2845 you reach the Monte Moro summit on the rocky, increasingly steep ridge. About the same distance as Joderhorn, T5–. Alternative descent: continue westward on the ridge until Uf de Galkernen and then northward on remains of névés, rocks slabs and scree to P. 2328 and to the mountain trail. Monte Moro – Uf de Galkernen – P. 2328 – Mattmark 3 h.

Author

Fredy Joss

Sabine und Fredy Joss

Alpine hiking, climbing and other mountain sports Sabine and Fredy Joss's passion. They have been writing and photographing for the SAC publishing house and the club magazine Die Alpen for many years. Sabine is also a biologist and tour guide; Fredy a proofreader and editor for various magazines.

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