Westwändli | Alpine climbing | Kleiner Bockmattliturm | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Steep wall Crack Very Beautiful route

Westwändli Kleiner Bockmattliturm 1750 m

  • Difficulty
    5c+ (5b)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    8 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 170 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    W / Limestone
  • Altitude start
    1530 m

The first climbing route through the west wall was established in 1953 and follows the weakest line, as was the custom of that time. At the cliff base and at the very top of the western shoulder the climbing leads through pines on grassy terrain. In the steep middle part of the wall, however, several very beautiful pitches lead over solid limestone. Especially impressive is the crux pitch: a striking parallel crack.

Route description

Approach to Westwändli and descent from the Western Shoulder.

From the Bockmattli hut, follow the footpath across the Gross Chälen and then horizontally to the start of the route.

Westwändli

See Topo.

Additional information

Protection
Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope
40m
Quick draws
10
Stoppers
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
-
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

The crux is significantly harder than the rest of the route... but you'll get up it somehow (its well protected now).

Rock Type / Quality

The first two pitches are mediocre, but the rest is on good quality rock.

Protection / Material

The route is equipped with bolts and belay stances, with questionable pitons dotted here and there for mental protection. Friends and nuts can add to the security but are not necessarily necessary!

Descent

The route ends on the western shoulder of the Bockmattliturm. From there, a path leads down to the Chli Chälen and back to the start (T5, about 15 minutes).

History

FA: F. Anderrüthi, W. Fleischmann, 1953; later re-equipped by B. Kälin and friends.

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