Westwändli | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Unterstütze den SAC Jetzt spenden

Westwändli Kleiner Bockmattliturm 1750 m

Difficulty

5c+ (5b)
Pitches / Height Difference

8 P / 2:30–3:30 h, 170 m
Exposition / Rock Type

W / Limestone
Altitude start

1530 m

The first climbing route through the west wall was established in 1953 and follows the weakest line, as was the custom of that time. At the cliff base and at the very top of the western shoulder the climbing leads through pines on grassy terrain. In the steep middle part of the wall, however, several very beautiful pitches lead over solid limestone. Especially impressive is the crux pitch: a striking parallel crack.

Route description

Approach to Westwändli and descent from the Western Shoulder.

From the Bockmattli hut, follow the footpath across the Gross Chälen and then horizontally to the start of the route.

Westwändli

See Topo.

Additional information

Protection: Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope: 40m
Quick draws: 10
Stoppers: ✔
Friends: ✔
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: ++
Abseiling possible: -
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Difficulty: The crux is significantly harder than the rest of the route... but you'll get up it somehow (its well protected now).

Rock Type / Quality: The first two pitches are mediocre, but the rest is on good quality rock.

Protection / Material: The route is equipped with bolts and belay stances, with questionable pitons dotted here and there for mental protection. Friends and nuts can add to the security but are not necessarily necessary!

Descent: The route ends on the western shoulder of the Bockmattliturm. From there, a path leads down to the Chli Chälen and back to the start (T5, about 15 minutes).