Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

West Ridge (Normal route) Krönten 3108 m

  • Difficulty
    F, 2c
  • Ascent
    3:30–4 h, 1204 m
  • Descent
    2–2:30 h, 1204 m

The Krönten is the main attraction in this high alpine area, which is bounded on the north by the Erstfeldertal and in the south by the Gornerental. With its characteristic shape (two summit towers separated by a 10 m deep ravine), the 'crowned mountain' dominates the neighboring peaks and thus offers a comprehensive panorama. The snag of the otherwise easy high tour comes at the very end: the short climb to the summit tower, which is secured with a few bolts. Adrenalin addicts can even venture the famous "Krönten Leap" that leads from the east to the west summit and requires a good coordination and jumping technique.

Route description

Kröntenhütte - Graw Stock

From the Krönten hut (1903 m) a path leads into the basin of the Obersee. Pass P. 1969 and climb the Mändliteifi before taking a line parallel to the north rib of the Graw Stock, to reach its summit (2453 m) below the Glatt Firn glacier.

Graw Stock - Glatt Firn - Kröntenlücke

Rocky steps provide access via P. 2570 onto the Glatt Firn glacier. Crossing the slightly rising glacier to the southeast, you gain access to the broad snow and rock ridge leading to the 'crowned mountain'.

Kröntenlücke - Westgrat - Krönten

Follow the narrowing ridge to reach the foot of the two summit towers. The easiest way to the summit cross leads into the gap between the two towers, from where you descend three meters on the north side, cross under the east tower and climb this directly (2 Bohrhaken, 2c). A more direct variant is the climb through the narrow chimney on the south side (1 Bohrhaken, 3a).

Descent

Follow the route of Ascent. From the summit tower make one 10m abseil.

Additional information

Departure and arrival point
Difficulty

Die Angabe der Kletterschwierigkeit (2c) bezieht sich alleine auf den ca. 10 Meter hohen Gipfelturm. Der Rest der Tour verlangt keine Kletterei.

Waypoints

Graw Stock (2453 m)

Unscheinbare Erhebung westlich der Kröntenhütte. Der gut markierte Weg und der schöne Tiefblick ins Erstfeldertal machen den Graw Stock zu einem empfehlenswerten Ziel bei unsicherem Wetter oder als Halbtagestour von der Kröntenhütte aus.

Kröntenlücke (2820 m)

Rarely used pass from Erstfeldertal to Gorneren and Gurtnellen. The back part of Gorneren with the Saasfirn and the Hinterer Steinchelen offers an original landscape and is home to many ibex.

History

J. Sowerby, J. M. Tresch and A. Zgraggen, 1868

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