Via ferrata Le Moléson - La Face | Via ferrata | Le Moléson | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Via ferrata Le Moléson - La Face Le Moléson 2002 m

  • Difficulty
    K5
  • Ascent
    2:30 h, 220 m
  • Mountain Experience
    2 / 4
  • Power
    3 / 4
  • Endurance
    2 / 4
  • Psyche
    2 / 4

Via ferrata Le Moléson - Le Pilier There are two via ferrata on Gruyère country's home mountain in French-speaking Switzerland: the Via Ferrata de la Face from 2004, which leads through the shady, ca. 300 m high north face; this ferrata is also known as "Voie Hohl" because it partly follows a climbing route once opened by Jacques Hohl. The second ferrata, opened in 2005, leads via the sunny northeast pillar and is, strangely, titled the ferrata du Pilier. One route tastes like ripe Gruyère (creamy?), the other like spicy Vacherin fribourgeois (who can tell?). Those with a strong appetite (not for cheese) may take on both routes in a single same day. For the easiest option take the nicer route to the Moléson (2002 m) via the pillar. Or just take the cable car instead and laugh at the "ferratistis" as they wobble over taut cable bridges. Many carefully placed iron rungs and bars provide support and boost confidence even through the vertical to overhanging sections. Both "iron ways" keep to the rock, avoiding grass where possible. Cow bells in the field below make a nice musical accompaniment to the ferrata goer's clanging karabiners.

Route description

Approach
Via ferrata de la Face (Voie Hohl)

Head up over grassy rock steps to the start of the vertical north wall (sign). A long traverse with some small descent leads right to the first vertical, briefly overhanging wall; retreat possible until here. Anyone who manages the first wall, will also manage the rest of this ferrata. In the middle part of the face, the route skirts the characteristic 'floating meadow'. On the second vertical section, and traverse section holds the route book. Then come the two finishing options. 1) the right variation, "Le surplomb", heads out over the overhang; difficulty BLACK / TD / KS5+. 2) the left variation, par "L'esquive", is a little easier; difficulty Red / D / KS4+. The left route splits again: easiest is to go right, where you will join the top of the "Le surplomb" variant (15 m), otherwise, for medium difficulty head straight up, over a last, slightly overhanging 'sting in the tail' (25 m).

Descent

Additional information

Character

K4 for Via ferrata du Pilier. The sunnier of the two Gruyère ferratas on the Moléson leads over the striking northeast pillar. A scenic route with some vertical- and two short overhanging sections; variant (not compulsory, very exposed): K5. Better in the morning, because of the sun.

K5 (in two short places), but mostly K4 for Via ferrata de la Face (variant finish K5 +). On the fore-summit (1936 m), both routes unite. Both routes require payment: 4 francs for adults, 2 francs for children; the money is used to maintain the facilities. Open from mid-June to mid-October - when the Moléson aerial cableway is in operation. Via ferrata equipment can be rented at the mid-station Plan-Francey.

Time

Abschüssiger, aber gut gesicherter Weiterweg auf den Hauptgipfel des Moléson. Erdige und grasige Stellen treten bei beiden Wegen auf, sodass sie sich eher bei trockener Witterung empfehlen.

Signalisation

Vorhanden

Author

Daniel Anker

Daniel Anker is a Bernese author and photographer. The historian has written around 40 ski tour, hiking, via ferrata and mountain bike guide books as well as detailed monographs on individual peaks in Switzerland.

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