From Capanna Quintino Sella via the Southwest-Ridge | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From Capanna Quintino Sella via the Southwest-Ridge (Normal route) Liskamm Westgipfel 4479 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    4–5 h, 1094 m

This is the easiest way of climbing Liskamm, but it does not lead to the highest point. From the hut you reach the Felikhorn, then follow the sometimes narrow SW ridge of Liskamm to about 4250 m. From here you traverse the upper part of the W-flank to reach the W-ridge, which leads to the W-summit. The starting point is officially called "Capanna Quintino Sella". This hut is also called "Capanna Quintino Sella al Felik" or "Rifugio Quintino Sella"

Route description

Capanna Quintino Sella - Felikjoch
Just behind the Capanna Quintino Sella (3585 m) you enter onto the Felikgletscher. Climb this in a NNE direction. On the way you pass Perazzispétz (3906 m) and the Colle Perazzi (about 3820 m, and 3880 m respectively) to the right. After a steep climb you reach the foot of the firn flank below the Felikhorn (4086 m). Climb over this steep slope diagonally right (eastwards) to reach the short-lived snow crest leading to the summit. Either summit Felikhorn, or contour round to the left (W) onto the firn saddle and reach P. 4066 of the Felikjoch, 2 hours.
Felikjoch - Liskamm
From here follow the initially broad ridge and curve round onto steep ground which leads up to P. 4210. Continue along the narrower SW ridge to approx. 4300 m before crossing the steep west flank to finish up the west ridge and gain the fore-summit (4448 m). From there you can easily reach the Western Summit of Liskamm (4479 m), 2 hrs.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Leslie Stephen, Edward-N. Buxton with the mountain guides Jakob Anderegg and Franz Biner, 16. August 1864.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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