From the East | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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From the East Lötschentaler Breithorn 3785 m

Difficulty

PD-
Ascent

5–5 h, 1390 m
Descent

250 m

A rather long tour starting at the Oberaletschhütte, mostly on the glacier. The key passage is overcoming the steep section to the south of the Lonzahörner. Depending on the condition of the glacier it can be tricky or (if all the surface snow is gone) even impossible. The hut warden at the Oberaletschhütte is always willing to give sound advice here. A scenic tour in the heart of the heavily glaciated Oberaletsch Basin. An interesting addition to the tour would be to descend via the Gredetschjoch (saddle) and from there through the lonely Gredetschtal (valley) to the village of Mund.

Route Overview, via the SE summit to the main summit of the Breithorn. (07/2015) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

Beichgletscher with its steep serac zones separating small rocky islands just below the white summit cap. Left in the foreground: the obvious shape of the Nesthorn. (08/2007) © Caplio R4 User

Route description

Oberaletschhütte - Oberaletschgletscher

From the Oberaletsch hut (2640 m) you can use the winter access path (heading north) to reach the Oberaletsch glacier.

Oberaletschgletscher - Lötschentaler Breithorn

Heading first SW, reach the confluence of the Oberaletsch and Beich Glaciers. Cross over and turn NW onto the Beichgletscher. At about 2650 m follow the curve of the glacier round once more to the SW. From 2900 m, the glacier becomes steeper. The steepest section is normally tackled between P. 3298 and the rocky island northwest of it. Thereafter the angle eases, but be wary of the several large crevasses that lurk here. Continue straight towards the base of the SE summit. To gain the main summit ridge, it is best to climb first up to the rocks of SE summit (P. 3781), traverse this and then descend to the saddle between the SE and main summits. Then follow the narrow firn- and last easy rock ridge to the main summit.