Via the South East Ridge. (Normal route) Mittaghorn (Lötschental) 3892 m
- PD, I
- 2–3 h, 670 m
In Switzerland there are maybe a dozen mountains over 2000 meters with the name Mittaghorn. By far the highest is the one described here in the chain from the Jungfrau to the Tschingelhorn on the Bern-Wallis border. As with the other Mittaghorns (or Midday Peaks), it gets its name because the sun is seen to be above the summit at noon from a certain vantage point, in this case from the Lauterbrunnen valley. In good conditions this can be a short and rewarding tour from the Hollandiahütte. However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.
From the hut ascend over the Äbeni Fluh Firn (glacier) beneath the Anungrat to your left (east) before climbing a short steep slope to gain the Anujoch (saddle) 3629 m. Roughly 1hr from the hut.
From the Anujoch cross a section of rock ridge, then follow the narrow snow ridge past point 3880 m and on to the top 3892 m.
Down the Ascent route.
- Departure point
However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.
First ascent made by Charles Montandon, A. Ringier und Adolf Rubin on 19. August 1878.