Via the South East Ridge. | Alpinism | Mittaghorn (Lötschental) | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Via the South East Ridge. (Normal route) Mittaghorn (Lötschental) 3892 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    2–3 h, 670 m

In Switzerland there are maybe a dozen mountains over 2000 meters with the name Mittaghorn. By far the highest is the one described here in the chain from the Jungfrau to the Tschingelhorn on the Bern-Wallis border. As with the other Mittaghorns (or Midday Peaks), it gets its name because the sun is seen to be above the summit at noon from a certain vantage point, in this case from the Lauterbrunnen valley. In good conditions this can be a short and rewarding tour from the Hollandiahütte. However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.

Route description

Hollandiahütte 3240m to the Anujoch 3629m

From the hut ascend over the Äbeni Fluh Firn (glacier) beneath the Anungrat to your left (east) before climbing a short steep slope to gain the Anujoch (saddle) 3629 m. Roughly 1hr from the hut.

Anujoch 3629m to Mittaghorn 3892m

From the Anujoch cross a section of rock ridge, then follow the narrow snow ridge past point 3880 m and on to the top 3892 m.

Descent

Down the Ascent route.

Additional information

Departure point
Difficulty

However with strong "Ausaperung" - melting of the snows due to radiation, the bergschrund beneath the Anujoch or the final ridge can prove problematic.

Waypoints
History

First ascent made by Charles Montandon, A. Ringier und Adolf Rubin on 19. August 1878.

Author

Marco Bomio

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.

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