Braunwald / Eggstöcke Via Ferrata, Sections 1 and 2 | Via ferrata | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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Braunwald / Eggstöcke Via Ferrata, Sections 1 and 2 Mittlerer Eggstock 2434 m

  • Difficulty
    K3
  • Mountain Experience
    1 / 4
  • Power
    2 / 4
  • Endurance
    1 / 4
  • Psyche
    3 / 4

You can see the Glärner mountains from Zurich's Quaibrücke (bridge). When the Föhn wind blows and the air is clear, it even seems to be within walking distance. In fact it is not more than an hour's drive from that metropolis at the lower end of Lake Zurich to the wilds of Glarnerland, and there are many, many great days out to be had there - including one of Switzerland's best via ferratas: the Braunwalder. The route received almost 7,000 visits in 2008; probably the Swiss wide record. This figure is known thanks to an automatic passenger counter which was installed before one of the first descent sections on route. Most "ferrastis" also travel by cable car, and also drop into the Berghaus. The route on the Eggstöcken is certainly one of the most beautiful in Switzerland. It consists of three sections: the first two, which are quite amenable, and a final somewhat harder section. For those who have never been on a via ferrata, you can hire equipment and test it out first on a new beginner route above Berghaus Gumen.

Route description

Approach
Section 1 (blue) on the Leiteregg
Well secured over the rocky base of the Leiteregg. Then along the ridge, becoming increasingly steeper, and through a short chimney (iron bars). Traverse left above a chasm and climb vertically up on more iron bars to a corner beneath the overhangs. Further steepness leads up and left to an exposed corner and a grassy rib which takes you up to the Leitereggstock (2319 m), with it Edelweiss bench.
Escape Option after the Leiteregg
From an initial high point go downhill for a short way in the direction of Vorder Eggstock. Where the route forks, bear left downhill in stepped terrain beneath the main rock buttress, crossing scree and grassy slopes (careful not to dislodge stones!). Two iron ladders lead down through a final cliff band to the meadows. Follow the main track back to Berghaus Gumen.
Section 2 (red) on the middle Eggstock
From the fork in the path, turn right along the ridge and climb up to an exposed rock shoulder. An almost vertical ladder leads to a horizontal band. Head left along this to the start of a steep chimney (iron rungs) and follow this (exhausting) up to some easier terrain. A final rock step leads to the summit of Vorder Eggstock (2449 m). Continue on the north side of the ridge and cross the spectacular 16 meter long Charlotte Bridge, above a gap. After this, trend first onto the rocks of the southern flank, then later directly along the ridge (with continuous steel cables for protection) to reach the extensive summit meadow of the Mittler Eggstocks (2420 m) with its small shelter hut.
Descent from Mittler Eggstock.
Shortly down to the next footpath junction (the righthand branch leads to Hinter Eggstock). Descend steeply down over rock, scree and grassy terrain (being careful not to dislodge stones!) A final rocky cliff is negotiated with the help of a slightly wobbly cable rope ladder leading past an overhang to exit at Tschingel (about 2120 m) ,

Additional information

Character

A long and varied 'iron way' through some fantastic alpine scenery (with a short approach). Lots of action and some treats, like the suspension bridge, and a double rope ladder at one of the descents.

Graded K3 until the Mittler Eggstock, and a real pleasure to climb. The final ascent to Hinter Eggstock is more demanding, with a spicy, slightly overhanging crux section (K5), which requires a thoughtful approach. This bit is only for experienced climbers! Since the summer of 2009, there has been a training route behind the Berghaus Gumen, incredibly well secured and ideal for children and beginners. Via ferrata equipment can be rented from Kessler Sport (telephone 055 643 22 22), in summer also at Berghaus Gumen.

Time

Small round (Leiteregg): about 2¾ hrs. Medium round (Mittler Eggstock): 4½ hrs. Big round (Hinter Eggstock): 5½ hrs. Beginners' Via Ferrata: ¾-1 hrs.

Signalisation

Approach and descent marked with white-blue-white paint.

Waypoints

Leitereggstock (2319 m)

Wird überschritten auf dem 2. Abschnitt des Klettersteigs.

Vorderer Eggstock (2448 m)

Wird überschritten auf dem 2. Abschnitt des Klettersteigs

Author

Eugen Hüsler

Eugen E. Hüsler is a Zurich born author and photographer. He has written around 70 via ferrata, hiking and cycling guides and illustrated books. His many publications on via ferrata have led to the nickname “Klettersteig-Papst“ (Via Ferrata Pope).

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