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From the Cabane du Vélan via the Northeast Flank (Normal route) Mont Vélan 3722 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2a
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- Ascent
- 4:30–5 h, 1173 m
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- Descent
- 86 m
This is the classic ascent route. First cross the Glacier du Tseudet to the Col de la Gouille and climb over the Glacier de Valsorey to the summit.
Route description
Cabane du Vélan - Glacier du Tseudet
From the Cabane du Vélan (2642 m) follow the footpath and the water pipe to SSW on the Glacier du Tseudet.
Glacier du Tseudet - Col de la Gouille
Head first south to pass the serac zone on the right. Then cross the main body of the glacier south-eastwards toward Col de la Gouille, at the SW foot of the Mont de la Gouille. Climb directly up the rocks to reach Col de la Gouille (fixed chain), 2 hours.
Col de la Gouille - Mont Vélan
From the Col de la Gouille (3148 m) down-climb climb 50 m over steep rocks (2a, chains, pitons/bolts) to reach the Glacier de Valsorey. Climb southwards over the gently sloping glacier in the direction of a rocky island, which you pass on the left. A slightly steeper bit leads to another small plateau (about 3320 m). Pass left (east) of the next steep crevasse field. Then, heading at first towards Dents du Vélan, arc progressively rightwards (west) to reach the east flank of Mont Vélan, and climb it to the top (3726 m) , 2½ hours.
Descent
Down the route of ascent.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Waypoints
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- History
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It is not known who first climbed this route.
