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From Simplon Hospiz via the South-Ridge (Normal route) Monte Leone 3554 m
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- Difficulty
- PD-, 2a
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- Ascent
- 5–6 h, 1670 m
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- Descent
- 130 m
The tour to Monte Leone is generally easy but long with many meters of altitude gain. The tour is extremely attractive and varied in terms of scenery: first of all, the route leads over alpine meadows. These are quickly replaced by a moraine landscape until you reach the Breithornpass via the Hohmattugletscher. After crossing the Alpjerg Glacier, an easy climb to the summit awaits you at the end.
Route description
Simplonpass - Homattupass
From the Simplon Hospiz (1997 m) follow the hut path towards the Monte Leone hut until about 2100 m. Bear south shortly before heading eastwards, diagonally up slope to beneath the north spur (2,785 m) of the Hübschhorn. Continue out onto the large moraines in the 'Chalti Wasser'. Pass southwest of P. 2603 m and rise under the NW-flank of Hübschhorn ( 2 variants, marked dark green/red on the right, marked light green on the left over rock slabs (T4) towards the Homattupass (2866 m).
Homattupass - Breithornpass
Below the pass, turn left up through the rocks to greet the Homattugletscher which is followed up to the Breithornpass, 3 hours from the Simplon Pass.
Breithornpass - Monte Leone
From the Breithorn Pass (3344 m), contour eastwards round the striking hollow of the Alpjergletscher, keeping an eye out for crevasses. Cross the bergschrund below P. 3320 on the far side and gain the S-ridge. This is followed in not-too difficult slabby climbing to reach the summit (3553 m), 2 hours.
Decent
Follow the route of ascent.
Additional information
- Departure point
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Simplon Hospiz (1998 m)
Unterkunft im Simplon Hospiz nahe der Haltestelle: gsbernard.ch/simplon/hospiz/
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- Waypoints
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- History
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Some Swiss military officers, in July 1859.
