From Rotenboden station | Ski tour | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From Rotenboden station Monte-Rosa-Hütte SAC 2883 m

  • Difficulty
    PD+
  • Ascent
    2:30 h, 360 m
  • Descent
    300 m
  • Exposure
    N, S, W

This ski ascent to the Monte-Rosa-Hütte CAS is usually only recommended from around mid-April. Earlier in the year, the approach from the Klein Matterhorn via Schwarztor and Gornergletscher is better. The access from P. 2649 near the summer trail down to the Grenzgletscher, which used to be common and is marked on the ski tour map, is no longer recommended due to glacier shrinkage and is only possible on the summer trail itself (variant). It is better and takes about the same amount of time to continue up the Gorner Glacier and reach the Monte Rosa Hut via Saaser Licka.

Route description

Rotenboden – Gornergletscher – Saaser Licka
From the Rotenboden train station (2815 m) head S over the Gornergrat, then E in the line of the summer path through its southern flank to the glacier just above P. 2649. On the Gornergletscher, make a arc southwards to the so-called "Saaser Licka", a rope-secured passage between P. 3106 and P. 3264, which you reach by traversing westwards on the north flank. and descend in a wide arc to the hut.
Saaser Licka
Cross the passage on foot (secured by ropes and iron rods).
Saaser Licka – Monte-Rosa-Hütte
Descend in a wide arc to the hut.
Old variant via Grenzgletscher
The glacier is no longer easy to access below P. 2649 due to glacier retreat; the only option, which is not recommended, is along the exposed summer path. Cross the Gorner Glacier southwards, descending to about 2480 m. Ascend the lefthand (E) edge of the glacier the Grenzgletscher until roughly 2800 m where you may cut out N onto the steep moraine flank to reach the hut.

Additional information

Departure point

Rotenboden (2815 m)

Information about the cable car Zermatt - Rotenboden: www.gornergratbahn.ch/de/sommer/bahninformationen/

Remarks

Caution: danger of avalanches when there is a lot of snow, many steep couloirs have to be crossed. Usually good conditions from around mid-April.

Route number

24a

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