From the Mischabelhütte via the Northeast-Ridge | Alpinism

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From the Mischabelhütte via the Northeast-Ridge

From the Mischabelhütte via the Northeast-Ridge (Normal route) Nadelhorn 4327 m

Difficulty

PD, 2a
Ascent

4:30–5 h, 991 m

The NE Ridge is over one kilometer in length the longest ascent to the Nadelhorn. From the hut you climb over the Hohbalmgletscher to the Windjoch and over the NE ridge to the summit. Always keep an eye out for crevasses on route to the Windjoch despite the often well-trodden track. On the Hohbalmgletscher, they are exactly in the direction of the travel; by the Windjoch they are perpendicular, and sometimes lightly covered by drifts. You can also combine this route with an ascent or traverse of Ulrichshorn.

The NE-Ridge and the normal route from Stecknadelhorn. © Fabian Lippuner

Kurz vor dem Windjoch. (09/2018) © Bernhard Stähli

Auf dem NE-Grat. (09/2018) © Bernhard Stähli

Nadelhorn, NE-Grat, Ulrichshorn, Riedgletscher links. © Christoph Moser

Im Abstieg. Ulrichshorn im Hintergrund. (09/2018) © Bernhard Stähli

Hobärghorn, Stecknadelhorn and Nadelhorn, NE-Ridge right. Viewed from the Lenspitze. © Moser Christoph

Route description

Mischabelhütte - Hohbalmgletscher

From the Mischabelhütte (3336 m) a path leads over a rocky ridge up to the Hohbalm glacier, which is reached at about 3600 m, 1 hour.

Hohbalmgletscher - Windjoch

Follow the contour line 3620 m in a semicircle to the foot of the Windjoch. There you climb on the right-hand side of the flank below the Ulrichshorn (often icy in midsummer) up to Windjoch, 1½ hours.

Windjoch - Nadelhorn

At the Windjoch (3847 m) turn left (SW) and follow the NE ridge over P. 4114, which at first consists of firn and snow but later becomes a rock ridge. To begin with some of the rock sections can be bypassed on the right. In icy conditions however it is best to stick to rock all the way (max grade 2a) to the summit (4327 m), 2 hours.

Descent

Follow the route of Ascent

Additional information

Departure point

Mischabelhütte AACZ (3340 m)

Waypoints

Windjoch (3845 m)

History: Franz Andenmatten, Baptiste Epiney, Aloys Supersaxo, J. Zimmermann, 16. September 1858. This group of mountain guides and workers was tasked with setting up a trigonometric device at the summit.

Neighbor summit

Ulrichshorn (3924 m)

The Ulrichshorn can be climbed on the descent with little extra effort.