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- Difficulty
- 5b (4c)
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- Pitches / Height Difference
- 9 P / 3–4 h, 220 m
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- Exposition / Rock Type
- SW / Limestone
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- Altitude start
- 1570 m
In addition to the elaborate routes on the Grossen Bockmattliturm (West Ridge, South Ridge, Deubergrätchen), the Nameless Tower presents the only low-difficulty, overall most recommendable climbing in the Bockmattli area. In consistently solid rock, interrupted now and then by short grassy passages, it leads in nine pitches on the tower of the same name. From its summit you can reach the Bockmattli meadow and the mountain path in a few steps, which then leads you back to the start of the route via the Gross Chälen. In dubious weather conditions, it is quite pleasant to know that halfway up the ridge and before the two most difficult rope lengths, you can escape onto the grassy slopes of the Chli Chälen.
Route description
Additional information
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Protection
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Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
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Rope
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1x45m
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Quick draws
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8
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Stoppers
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✔
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Friends
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✔
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Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy
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++
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Abseiling possible
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Foot Descent
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✔
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Ski approach possible
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Glacier equipment
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- Difficulty
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Classic, mostly grade 4 tour with two short sections of 5 (possible to aid / milk the draws).
- Rock Type / Quality
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Good rock with grassy intersections.
- Protection / Material
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Well bolted with solid belays. Friends are handy if you get the wobbles, but are not really necessary.
- Descent
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From the summit follow a short grassy ridge on the the large Bockmattli plateau and take the marked footpath back to the Bockmattli hut.
- History
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FA: C. Hauser, J. Krebser 1947; re-equipped B. Kälin, E. & M. Koller 1992.
