Namenlose Kante (Nameless Ridge) | Alpine climbing | Nameless Tower (Bockmattli) | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Disclaimer

Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. The routes presented here are undertaken at one’s own risk. If you want to safely practice mountain sports, taking training courses run by experts is highly recommended by the SAC. All the contents of the SAC Route Portal are put together with utmost diligence. However, the Swiss Alpine Club and the authors cannot guarantee that the information provided here is up-do-date, correct and complete. Therefore, the SAC and the authors cannot be held liable for possible errors.

Ridge Crack Very Beautiful route

Namenlose Kante (Nameless Ridge) Nameless Tower (Bockmattli) 1767 m

  • Difficulty
    5b (4c)
  • Pitches / Height Difference
    9 P / 3–4 h, 220 m
  • Exposition / Rock Type
    SW / Limestone
  • Altitude start
    1570 m

In addition to the elaborate routes on the Grossen Bockmattliturm (West Ridge, South Ridge, Deubergrätchen), the Nameless Tower presents the only low-difficulty, overall most recommendable climbing in the Bockmattli area. In consistently solid rock, interrupted now and then by short grassy passages, it leads in nine pitches on the tower of the same name. From its summit you can reach the Bockmattli meadow and the mountain path in a few steps, which then leads you back to the start of the route via the Gross Chälen. In dubious weather conditions, it is quite pleasant to know that halfway up the ridge and before the two most difficult rope lengths, you can escape onto the grassy slopes of the Chli Chälen.

Route description

Nameless Tower.

See topo.

Descent

From the summit follow a short grassy ridge on the the large Bockmattli plateau and take the marked footpath back to the Bockmattli hut. Only the second part of the "Abstieg über den Südgrat" from Bockmattli applies to the descent from the Namenlose Turm.

Additional information

Protection
Well equipped, longer distances in easy sections possible
Rope
1x45m
Quick draws
8
Stoppers
Friends
Trad Protection
++
Abseiling possible
-
Foot Descent
Ski approach possible
-
Glacier equipment
-
Difficulty

Classic, mostly grade 4 tour with two short sections of 5 (possible to aid / milk the draws).

Rock Type / Quality

Good rock with grassy intersections.

Protection / Material

Well bolted with solid belays. Friends are handy if you get the wobbles, but are not really necessary.

Descent

From the summit follow a short grassy ridge on the the large Bockmattli plateau and take the marked footpath back to the Bockmattli hut.

History

FA: C. Hauser, J. Krebser 1947; re-equipped B. Kälin, E. & M. Koller 1992.

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