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The South Ridge

The South Ridge (Normal route) Oberaarhorn 3630 m

Difficulty

F
Ascent

1–2 h, 374 m
Descent

374 m

The Oberaarhorn (3630 m) is the local summit of the Oberaarjochhütte and is easily accessible, taking just over one hour to climb. The summit, with its beautiful and extensive view is incidentally the most visited peak in the area. It is often reached by sunrise and the clear views to the east make it a particularly impressive experience. It is common for people to climb the Oberaarhorn en route home from the Finsteraarhorn as an extra treat - a dessert of sorts. For budding alpinists, the Oberaarhorn and its necessary hut crossing offers an excellent starter tour.

The first meters after the hut. (08/2022) © Matthias Hänni

First sun rays on the Finsteraarhorn © Bomio Marco

Sunrise from the Oberaarhorn © Bomio Marco

Route description

South Ridge

Immediately west of the hut follow markings in a northerly direction over steep and loose slate slabs and brittle gneiss onto the snow slope. Follow this directly to the summit (maybe corniced).

Descent

Descend the same route.

Additional information

Departure point

Oberaarjochhütte SAC (3258 m)

History: The Oberaarhorn was first climbed in 1860 by the British pioneer Leslie Stephen together with mountain guide Melchior Anderegg. Stephen climbed a number of demanding alpine first ascents with Anderegg including the Rimpfischhorn, Zinalrothorn, Bietschhorn and Blümlisalphorn. Only the Schreckhorn did he climb with three Grindelwald guides. Stephen is also the author of the classic mountaineering book 'The Playground of Europe'.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.