The South Ridge (Normal route) Oberaarhorn 3630 m
- 1–2 h, 374 m
- 374 m
The Oberaarhorn (3630 m) is the local summit of the Oberaarjochhütte and is easily accessible, taking just over one hour to climb. The summit, with its beautiful and extensive view is incidentally the most visited peak in the area. It is often reached by sunrise and the clear views to the east make it a particularly impressive experience. It is common for people to climb the Oberaarhorn en route home from the Finsteraarhorn as an extra treat - a dessert of sorts. For budding alpinists, the Oberaarhorn and its necessary hut crossing offers an excellent starter tour.
Immediately west of the hut follow markings in a northerly direction over steep and loose slate slabs and brittle gneiss onto the snow slope. Follow this directly to the summit (maybe corniced).
Descend the same route.
- Departure point
The Oberaarhorn was first climbed in 1860 by the British pioneer Leslie Stephen together with mountain guide Melchior Anderegg. Stephen climbed a number of demanding alpine first ascents with Anderegg including the Rimpfischhorn, Zinalrothorn, Bietschhorn and Blümlisalphorn. Only the Schreckhorn did he climb with three Grindelwald guides. Stephen is also the author of the classic mountaineering book 'The Playground of Europe'.