Via the Spillauibielfirn glacier | Alpinism

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Piz Giuv / Schattig Wichel
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- Via the Spillauibielfirn glacier
- Vom Brichplanggenstock mit Abstieg durchs Val Giuv
Via the Spillauibielfirn glacier

Via the Spillauibielfirn glacier Piz Giuv / Schattig Wichel 3096 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

3:30–4 h, 1070 m
Descent

2–2:30 h, 1070 m

The Piz Giuv - the locals also call it Schattig Wichel - dominates the panorama of the Etzlihütte. The tour is without significant difficulties, but the phenomenon of glacier retreat is very noticeable here. As a result of this, the rock barrier between the Spillauibielfirn and the eastern ridge of the Piz Giuv now forms the crux of the tour, requiring a little climbing over brittle rock. The whole area is rich in minerals and frequented by crystal hunters. If you find a crystal on the tour, its no problem to take it with you. A licence is only necessary if you want to use tools for the search and extraction of crystals.

The route to the summit. (07/2010) © Christoph Sager

Route description

Etzlihütte - Spiellauibielfirn glacier

From Etzlihütte (2052 m) descend in a westerly direction along the Etzlibach (stream), cross it and reach Unter Felleli. Of the two prominent moraines follow onto the larger western one, where tracks lead southwest to the Spillauibielfirn glacier.

Spiellauibielfirn glacier - Piz Giuv

Crossing the glacier, you reach the fragile rock step under the saddle between Hälsi and Piz Giuv. A short bit of climbing on brittle rock leads into the saddle, from where you can easily reach the summit via the east ridge.

Descent

Follow the route of ascent

Additional information

Departure and arrival point

Etzlihütte SAC (2052 m)

Difficulty: The passage between Hälsi and Piz Giuv is brittle on the north side and is especially arduous towards the end of the season. As of July 2021, two fixed ropes can be found in the step, whereby the left one is to be preferred.